Anyone here know what the torque settings Should be on the mains and rods (caps)?

I've had a "built" b18c now for about 2,000 miles. I broke it in properly for over 1,000miles (wanted to be safe) and then dyno-tuned the car for 15lbs of boost (Hondata stage2+boost). The car ran great, then I decided I wanted a larger turbo and exhaust. I recently installed a new turbocharger, clutch, and 3" exhaust, once again driving conservatively until the new clutch was broken in.

Well, 200 miles into the clutch-break-in period, my oil light comes on at the stop-light. In a Honda this pretty much means you're doomed since there's no in-between stages before that light comes on. I immediately I pulled into the service station across the street, le the car settle for a while, and then checked the oil-level. Perfect! I cranked the car agin... no oil light, so I drove it on home (about 3 miles)... no oil light. This morning I decide to crank the car, oil light stays on. So, all I can think of is that the place that built my motor overtightened the main or rods, or the oil pump failed.

What's strange is that it took so long to happen (if it was an over-torqued issue). I was changing the oil every 500 miles (after the first 50 and then 100 miles) to check for metal. Everything was great. Today, I go to drain the oil and the Moroso pan plug had sharp strands of metal attached. I dropped the pan for further inspection and a feakin' thrust washer is lying in the pan and mauled pretty baddly. There are also a couple of other "chunks" in the pan which look like parts of another thrust washer. Nevertheless, the car SEEMED to run well... no noises, no nothing.

So, just out of curiosity, what should the mains and rods have been torqued to? I'll sk them what they torqued them to (as if nothing is wrong) and see if they match the answer i get in here.

Anyway, I'm thinking of just buying a pre-assembled JG pro series turbo block. any comments on that?

 

Everything is supposed to be tightened in two stages. Here's what my Helms says:

Check the rod bearing clearance with plastigage then tighten the capnuts in two steps.

1st step: 20 N•m(2.0 kg-m, 14 lb-ft)
2nd step: 32 N•m(3.2 kg-m, 23 lb-ft)

NOTE: Reference numbers on connecting rod are for big-end bore tolerance and do NOT indicate the position of the piston in the engine.

Install the thrust washers and main bearing caps. Check clearance with plastigage, then tighten the bearing cap bolts in two steps.

In the first step tighten all bolts in sequence to about 30 N•m(3.0 kg-m, 22 lb-ft); in the final step tighten in same sequence to 78 N•m(7.8 kg-m, 56 lb-ft). NOTE: coat the bolt threads with oil.



One caveat, this is from my '92 Helms which only covers the B18A and B17A, both of which do not have the girdle that the B18C has. The torque specs may very well be different.

 

That sounds like they didn't shim the block with the correct thrust bearings to me rather than overtorqued the mains or rods.

 

The thrust bearings should have been none other than GSR thrust bearings, right? I actually bought the thrust bearings, mains and rods. Whether or not they put in the new ones, or put them in right is another story I suppose.

I just got my block all packed up and I'm now about to head out to get it shipped. It's going to Import Builders to get their 2.0 turbo GSR block treatment. Should be pretty nice when I get it back.

 

Thrust bearings are like mains and rods in that they can come in different thicknesses based on crank end-play and to take out wear from running of the engine [wear and tear], and ultimately, this should have been checked when the engine was being assembled, and at the machine shop even before then.

 

This is very interesting. Do the thrust bearings actually come color coded like the mains and rods? If so, shouldn't the parts specialist at the Acura dealer asked me for this information?

Thanks,

 

well...

More often than not they won't ask you because it's pretty rare that the crank end play will be off, but they are available in .010" and above oversizes, most often found from aftermarket companies though. I dunno without looking at it first hand, I'm just throwing out what I think is the most likely culprit.

 

So you think the thrust bearing got messed up because it may have been the wrong size... regardless of the fact that the car had no oil pressure?

 

Loss of oil pressure can cause bearing failures or can be caused by bearing failures, it's a two-way street.

 

Once again, very interesting. Can you give me an example as to how bearing failure can cause lack of oil pressure?