Anyone here know what the torque settings Should be on the mains and rods (caps)?

I've had a "built" b18c now for about 2,000 miles. I broke it in properly for over 1,000miles (wanted to be safe) and then dyno-tuned the car for 15lbs of boost (Hondata stage2+boost). The car ran great, then I decided I wanted a larger turbo and exhaust. I recently installed a new turbocharger, clutch, and 3" exhaust, once again driving conservatively until the new clutch was broken in.

Well, 200 miles into the clutch-break-in period, my oil light comes on at the stop-light. In a Honda this pretty much means you're doomed since there's no in-between stages before that light comes on. I immediately I pulled into the service station across the street, le the car settle for a while, and then checked the oil-level. Perfect! I cranked the car agin... no oil light, so I drove it on home (about 3 miles)... no oil light. This morning I decide to crank the car, oil light stays on. So, all I can think of is that the place that built my motor overtightened the main or rods, or the oil pump failed.

What's strange is that it took so long to happen (if it was an over-torqued issue). I was changing the oil every 500 miles (after the first 50 and then 100 miles) to check for metal. Everything was great. Today, I go to drain the oil and the Moroso pan plug had sharp strands of metal attached. I dropped the pan for further inspection and a feakin' thrust washer is lying in the pan and mauled pretty baddly. There are also a couple of other "chunks" in the pan which look like parts of another thrust washer. Nevertheless, the car SEEMED to run well... no noises, no nothing.

So, just out of curiosity, what should the mains and rods have been torqued to? I'll sk them what they torqued them to (as if nothing is wrong) and see if they match the answer i get in here.

Anyway, I'm thinking of just buying a pre-assembled JG pro series turbo block. any comments on that?