Fatbooty isn't saying that the b16 is superior, what he is saying is that with proper tuning you can expect to achieve far more money than if you throw money at some JDM company.

You could expect at least 10 hp & 10 tq gains across the entire graph with a decent header... hytech, smsp.

 

Remember that this motor has a ported head and the exhaust it's running is basically nothing more than a header.

Contrary to popular belief, the same cam will not produce the same results in different motors. In B18s the Stage 2 skunks do indeed make really great power. However in a B16, the stroke is a lot shorter and there's a lot more piston dwell time at TDC (top dead center). Without getting too in-depth, the skunk Stage 1's are really the best choice for a B16 cams.

On a normal car running a full exhaust, I would run a Comptech header which does have a 2.25" collector, but plumb it into a 2.5" Carsound cat and a custom 2.5" exhaust with your choice of muffler. The CRX doesn't have a lot of ground clearance, plus B-series motors installed with the mount kits out there hang lower than if one were to say, put the same motor in an EG. Adittionally, all of the headers out there with a 2.5" collector are designed to fit all the way around the bottom of a B18, which is to say that they'd hang really low off the bottom of a B16. All in all somewhat of a liability.

To compensate for the little bit more restriction than running an open exhaust you could bump up the CR (CTR pistons in a B16 yield about 10.8:1) to around 12:1 or so with a set of forged pistons from Race Engineering.

Finally, if you look for where the plot with the skunk2 cams peaks, it's at about 8700 RPM. Going much past say 8900 won't do any good.

So if I was building a B16 to put in a streetable car my parts list (aside from all yer standard rebuild items of course) would look like this:

ITR throttle
ITR intake mani
ITR valvesprings
titanium retainers
skunk2 Stage 1 cams
Porting/headwork (Portflow does great work)
Race Engineering 12:1 forged pistons
Comptech header for '99-'00 Si
2.5" Carsound cat
2.5" custom exhaust, pick yer own muffler
skunk2 cam gears
A'PEXi V-AFC

At this point you're pretty much maxing out any headroom that was left on the stock B16 240 cc/min injectors but they should be alright.

One other issue is that both the PR3 and PW0 ECUs (the only non-OBD B16 ECUs) both use two oxygen sensors located in the primaries of the header as opposed to the later setup of one sensor in the collector. You can solve this a couple of ways. One is to take the stock B16 header and the Comptech header to a muffler shop. They would then plug the bunger for the sensor on the aftermarket header and tap two new bungers in similar locations as to what's on the stock header. Either that, or you can send your stock Si ECU off to ZDyne to have them convert it to run a B16 but with the same one-sensor setup as what's provided on the '99-'00 Si header.

 

I agree with Booty, but would go with some Portflow inners and perhaps retainers, just for that $80 added bit of valvetrain security, and if the money were available, some Crower Econobillet rods. They're about 20% lighter than stock.

 

That sounds like a wicked setup. I wanted to put a B16 in my crx, but that will probably have to go on hold for a bit... I found out today my 86 crx is a lot more rotten than I origionally thought...

 

Is it an Si? If it's carbeurated it'll be really, uh, "fun" to swap in a B-series.

Or am I missing something here and you have more than just the '86? What's the deal?

 

its carbed, and I will be putting a b-series in there

 

Bah screw fuel injection...get some DCOE's!

 

I thought about that for a while, but nobody came up with a solution for vtec + no fuel injection.... I suppose I could just run it always in vtec??? But then I wouldn't get meerrrrrrrrRRRRNWAAAAA

 

I was actually just talking about copying Harry's setup of an Si head on the DX block, with a coupla DCOE's.

But...

In theory you could get VTEC to work on a carbed car. The easy part is hooking up an RPM-activated switch to trigger the VTEC solenoid. You'd also have to wire up a new ignition setup but that's relatively easily accomplished.

The only real hard part is figuring out how the hell to jet the carbs.

 

That's correct. Just have to put in an MSD setup and set the base timing manually, which would just be static since there wouldn't be any computer controlled advance.
Actually, that isn't even all that hard. But due to the redline of a B16, you'd need to move up to 45mm DCOEs instead of 40's for best performance, could probably even get away with using 48mm DCOEs to make the most power.