I know pretty much what you need for a complete turbo setup, but I was just wondering (as its my daily driver) since its bone stock now, what sequence of parts would you use if you were trying to keep the car going between garage sessions? (will be doing it myself with help)
ie. 'buy "fuel/suspension part" then "exhaust/internal part", then put "this" and "that" on with the rest all on at once' ..?

Because A kit obviously only has the turbo assembly it self (and I dunno if Im gonna piece it together yet either), figuring I'll get that last, but as for everything else...

I searched 'sequence of parts turbo build etc' on google and can't find anything

I dunno if it matters but it's a 96' Integra LS and I'm shooting for 280-300ish hp.

Thanks for help in advance if anyone bothers! lol
Copied Up To First Post: Better topic question: What's a good mid-to-low budget turbo setup for a GSR engine in an LS that could reach just about 300whp safely? (I dunno what parts on the LS could hold up to GSR equivalent parts, let alone 300hp, suspension-wise though, that'll be another day )

 

What is your budget?

I am having difficulty understanding your question. Are we talking turbo build as in beefing up the bottom end to handle more boost or turbo build as in piecing something together and slapping it on over a weekend?

 

My budget is 'decent' I want a reliable setup but I'm not in a need to have top of the line or even (all) new parts, I was just loking for a list of an order on how to modify it. I'm pretty sure swapping in the B18C first would result in needing a new exhuast system right off the bat (?) so in order to install the engine I would first need to get the exhaust and put them on together.(?)

As for which method of turbo build I mean the whole deal. I could live with a bolt on kit, but I'm tyring to get into this as a career anyway so I might as well give it a try. I was just wondering what parts would make others useless, like would a turbo-ready exhaust system run funny before I put the turbo on to the degree it effects daily drivability until i finished getting the fuel injectors and rest of the turbo assebly on. Or is it better the build the engine up, and put al the parts on in one garage session?(meaning the duration of the car being in a garage). I just didn't want to ask a million questions.

Better yet, does anyone know of a good 'do it yourself turbo, on a daily driven car' faq? As you can tell Im a bit of a n00b

 

Your question is WAY too broad for anyone to help you. You really need to do some research for yourself to see how certain parts affect the setup so that you can make a educated decision on what you need. For example, parts that work for my setup may not necessarily be the best fit for your setup.

Asking a million questions will get you much farther than broad, vague questions that could be answered in a million different ways.

 

lol, alright that's what I figured. I'm just trying to have everything planned out before I buy it and bought before i install it :P but I might have to slap something on, just the 3k price tag on a kit seems ridiculous o_O (more than the engine itself)

quick question though: did you teach yourself with books/internet or did you go to school for this kind of stuff? I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about figuring out what the hell I'm doing..

Better topic question: What's a good mid-to-low budget turbo setup for a GSR engine in an LS that could reach just about 300whp safely? (I dunno what parts on the LS could hold up to GSR equivalent parts, let alone 300hp, suspension-wise though, that'll be another day )

 

I am self-taught. Everything you need to know is on the internet...you just have to know where to find it and determine if it is true or not. I have never taken an automotive class in my life.

For 300 whp, a basic log manifold, t3/t4 50 or 57 trim, injectors larger than 370cc, and some sort of engine managment will get you there. Of course there is more to this list but those parts would need to be purchased whether you wanted 200 whp or 400 whp.

 

Yeah, I can't wait t start the modding, It's just the ECU work I'm afraid to do. I know I heard that I might wanna switch to OBD1 for simplicity issues, but It's gonna be alot of reading before I understand any of that.

But as for what you said, what internal parts should I consider swapping out for better ones to handle the 300whp? I know some things can handle higher RPMs than others.

 

Just to address one tiny part of your project, why do you plan on swapping the engine first? IMHO, the GSR engine won't give you anything extra on a turbo build, and you'll be wasting your money. Drop that money on your current engine and you'll end up with a helluva lot more power.

 

I dunno, my engine right now has 200k miles on it and I figure a new b18c would feel smoother and quicker.
One thing that bothers me with the engine in it now is that from stop to going in first gear feels like it has to go over a small hump to get going, in the civic i could just smoothly start rolling and scoot away, but this engine tends to have the smallest gap between stopped and going that it almost forces you to chirp the tires every time I leave an intersection.
I dunno how else to describe it, but If i could find a way to get rid of that problem (its probably more tranny/shifter based than anything, but I honestly wouldn't know lol) I'd just swap the head out, but I'd be learning in the process, and figured the swap would be easier in the long run. The swap isn't a definite thing but its in th plans at the moment, things can always change though

P.S. Is there a -ls/vtec build- or -ls/vtec boosting- guide anyone has handy. (or a link to)

 

A VTEC head really isn't worth it for boost either IMHO. That's the kind of thing I would suggest only after you've squeezed every other ounce of power out of the rest of the engine. Even then, it's only so you can keep daily drivability while running really hot cams.

Your problem sounds like engine management or vacuum to me. TBH though, I've never seen/experienced a burp like what you're describing, but I'm having a hard time imagining how it could be a trans issue. Clutch could do that, but it would be all gears, not just first.



For the price of a b18c you could rebuild your engine from top to bottom, purchase a new transmission if that's what your problem is, and still have a thousand dollars left over in your pocket. Or you could resleeve.