B16a2VTIguy

I have recently turbo'd my B16a2 and built it with the following parts and done this work....
The engine has 145k on it, and 40k has been done by me

*JE forged pistons 9.0.1
*Eagle rods
*Cometic 051 head gasket
*ARP headbolts and rod bolts
*ITR valvesprings and retainers and lapped the original b16a2 valves back in to the same head they were removed from.
*King rod main (big end) bearings (stupidly did not check clearances)
(apparantly green compared to hondas colour code?)
*Colours off big end bearings on crank where 1xgreen, 1x black and 2x red.
*Standard and untouched the mains in the same block

When i first started it, i left it idleing for a few minutes then took it very cafefully around the block, when i did this i noticed straight away underload it made a loud knocking, ticking noise.
I re-checked the tappets and made sure it wasnt anything drivetrain related or any aux parts....it wasnt.

I was reasurred it wasnt anything major and just sounded like piston slap by a few friends, so i started doing some break-in miles, ive now done +450miles and the noise is still ther, i feel its got a little louder...but its hard to tell with it being so loud to begin with.
My rebuilt engine has done 145k miles, but it doesnt sound like piston slap to me, would piston slap be underload or off-load?
Anyway, i was convinced it was rod mains because of the colours used against standard, as far as i can see, honda aim for green, blus is the thickest and red the slimest bearing, am i right?
If so, it seemed to me that the cylinder that i removed the black rod main bearing from would mean the green one fitted would be to small?

Conrod Bearing Set
1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594"-0.0593" BLUE
1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593"-0.0592" BLACK
1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592"-0.0591" BROWN
1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591"-0.0590" GREEN
1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590"-0.0589" YELLOW
1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589"-0.0587" PINK
1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587"-0.0586" RED

So i checked the rod mains and all of them looked fine, the one showing the most wear i replaced with the original black shell from that crank, just to see if that cured it for a moment. When i re-started it, the noise was there immediatly again.

Heres some vids i have taken off it to try show the noise..

In the car driving


IDLEING


REVVING


INITIAL START UP


Im really confussed here? wtf is this noise?
Does anyone else on here have a high mileage turboed B series? is it really noisy?


Thanks for any help, ste

18crx

well did you over bore your engine. if so maybe the spec is too big for the piston. it sounds like its ratling around in the bore. my buddies subaru does the same thing. but when its hot it sounds almost normal. crappy thing is that if its too big youll have to take it back apart again to find out.

Provocateur

Can you determine where in the engine the noise is coming from? Is it louder near the oil pan area or the head? What is your piston-wall clearance?

There are a lot of things that could be making that noise but it is extremely hard to diagnose it without knowing where it is coming from.

B16a2VTIguy

I didnt over bore the block no, it was just a stock 81mm bore and pistons.

I stupidly did not check my piston to wall clearance. Can i check this by removing the sump/oil tray etc? Just by feeling for excess play?

Its really hard to tell exactly were its coming from, especially as it only under-load.
It doesnt get any quieter or louder as it warms up, thats why i doubt its piston slap, because forged piston expand more when hot dont they?

If a rod main had like 0.04 clearance instead of the 0.02 would that cause a slight knock underload, or would it be obvious (get worse with miles quickly and knock on or off load?)

18crx

well i would do this if it was mine. get really pissed off and pull it back out and not drive it anymore so that i can find out what the problem is and check all my clearances. and so ya know if you put forged pistons in and didnt check the clearance that sucks. its possible for them to be smaller or larger. did you assm the engine or did someone else? and for the rod knock it would get worse as the bearings got hammered down into an egg shape. it would knock slightly at a tade bit of throttle but really knock as you push it and also on decel but not as bad as accel.
so take it apart and figure out whats up because its not right. it will cost more if it puts a hole in the block.

18crx

and did you check the ring end gap?? that has to be done.

B16a2VTIguy

I assembled the engine yes, and i know thats it sucks....its a first time building and i was just stupid.
Yes i checked the ring gaps, they were exactly the same as the old rings and within tolerance of JE's specs.
I havent been driving it, im just making sure i check everything before i end up stripping it down again.

Ive just checked and the crank pulley has abit of play, how much if any play is normal?
Thanks again for any help

Provocateur

You have to check the piston to wall clearance by measuring the size of the bore and the diameter of the piston and taking the difference between the two.

The expansion of the piston depends on the silicone content. High silicone pistons expand less under heat than low silicone pistons.

You mention that the crank pulley has play in it. It shouldn't have any play in it at all. Try a new bolt and washer to see if that does anything. I had a similar problem with my crank pulley but I don't recall what it sounded like. Here is my thread about it: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=207874

B16a2VTIguy

Thanks alot for that help, it turns out the noise was a mixture of two things.
1.Crank pulley had play, due too missing a washer inbetween pulley and crank :doh:
2.Big ends are defo knocking slightly, so im going to plasti gauge them tomorrow night and order the correct bearings.

Ill keep u informed, thanks again.

Ste

B16a2VTIguy

I plasti guaged the bearings yesterday and all cylinders all showed 0.02" / 0.03". Ive been told ther meant 2 be 0.02mm max is this correct?
The check with the plastigauge was done with green KING bearings and eagle rods, why where the clearances so out even with the same colour bearings as removed from the crank? Are the rods that much bigger and is this normal?