Waddup everyone!!! I guess this is the right place to post this.. if not please place it where it needs to be.

So recently I just picked up my motor from the machine shop. It is installed in my car and all wired up and bolted up. Now I have been doing some research about motor break in's.... before I was under the impression that to break in a motor you need to drive like 1000 miles or so... but after all my reading and researching I have seen that there are many many ways to break in the motor. But a common thing I read was that "the main thing to break in a motor is to seat the rings... and you do this by driving in every gear and opening your throttle a certain percent" but since opinions varies so much i have decided to just take it to evans tuning (a local tuner here www.evans-tuning.com) and he does engine break ins so I will have it done there....

now my main concern is when I first start the car.. I understand I have to make sure my air/fuel ratio is at around 14.7 and how critical your air/fuel is... but how do I adjust it? I have a AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. Do I need a fuel pressure gauge? or one of those air/fuel gauges that go in the car, or a wideband??? and once I read the air/fuel mixture how do I bring it up or down? adjust the Fuel Pressure regulator??? thanks for the help... or if you have any suggestion from engine break ins please let me know

 

you need a tuneable ems to properly adjust the afr. evans offers break in on the dyno for an extra $100. take advantage of it. if you dont have a wideband you wont know what your afr is. you might run too rich washing out the rings. or too lean leading to excessive heat. if the rings dont seat in the first few minutes, they never will.

tow the car to them. let them do the initial startup, break in, and tune.

 

thanks snoopy that is what was going through my head.. so with a wideband I cant adjust my A/F mixture.. it is just more accurate then them gauges that go in the car right???

i would love to juss tow it to him and have him do the start up.. but he wont.. he said I have it start it here first.. let it run and make sure I have no leaks.. no erratic idle.. no overheating.. in other words no problems.. then bring it to him and he does everything. he said I will be ok turning it on and letting it run to check everything out as long as I dont take it above a certain RPM and my air/fuel is around 14.7 (i think but cant remember i have it written down somewhere)

so there has got to be another way of checking my air/fuel without messing with my ecu... was thinking maybe if i had a adjustable fuel pressure regulator.. and i adjust that would that be good enough to bring it up or down a little???

 

well if that's what he says that's what you should do. a wideband will only tell you your afr accurately. you can mess with the fpr to get the afr's close to where they should be. 14.7 is what you want it at idle.

 

how would you turn the regulator up or down???

 

What exactly is your setup? Depending on your CR, and other specs - OBDII will compensate the correct AFR to a point. I wouldn't drive it without tunning, but for initial startup you should be fine.

First thing, crank it over enough to build up oil pressure before you start it. And use non-detergent oil to seat the rings. It's also best to start it with the rad. cap off in order to prevent air bubbles from causing over corrected timing and an erratic idle.

Good luck!

 

will i am using a p72 and my CR is gonna be around 12:1 hopefully maybe a lil higher and it is a obd-1 gsr.. yes I know about building up oil pressure and non detergent oil .. i never heard about the rad cap trick before.. but my car is obd-1... i dont think the car would bring it down...but either way i dont wanna take that chance.. I ordered my wideband and my car has a fuel rail and regulator.. so I figured when i start it I can read the wideband adjust the fuel regulator to bring it where I want it.. I just dont really know how to adjust it..??????? my tuner wants me to run the car for a while.. making sure the idle is ok... there is no leaks... car aint shutting off.. basically that it is runing good.. no point in towing it all the way to the dyno and having it mess up on the dyno... thank you

 

On most FPR's, you turn the top nipple clockwise to raise the pressure, and counter clockwise to lower it. You should have the engine running, and the vacuum line disconnected. If you ordered a wideband o2, you should have a good idea where your AFR is.

What are you using for camshafts?


Here is a website I went by to break in my engine, about 2 months ago:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I used this, and the guide on Evans Tunning's website.

 

as for camshafts i plan on ordering a pair of buddy club 4 cams...

i have read that article in my researching. I came across that one and a couple others that basically say the same thing..

i still dont feel comftable doint it myself though... i rather pay $100 and have evan break it in for me on his dyno

so to adjust the fpr you disconnect the vacuum line and turn the nipple.. thanks for the help!!

 

plan on also ording the valvesprings and retainers that go along with the Buddy club Spec 4's