Honda engine bearings......OEM versus ACL?
GWAKS- Tech Geekifier
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,109
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From: Hampton, VA
Gonna have to disagree with you there, I've gone through this every time I do a honda lower end.
You're matching the bearings to the crank, that's it.
In my experience, if the crank is damaged and needs to be polished or otherwise cut, replace it. Honda's hardening process on their cranks only gives a few thousandths of hardening, and then you get into the softer inner material. If you cut too much, you compromise the strength of the crank, and you'll have tuning and reliability issues down the road [been there, done that].
Also, you shouldn't consider line honing the mains on the block unless you really want headaches.
So, what you do is match up your main bearings based on how they clearance out, and go with slightly over or under sized accordingly PER main. You're not going to get the same size bearing at every location without a lot of work and luck. Rods are the same way, match the bearing needed with the journal it's going to ride on for proper clearance and don't worry about trying to get them all the same size.
For the record, this is the method I've used with OEM honda bearings, and, as with my car which I rebuilt the engine 7 years ago, aftermarket bearings.
You're matching the bearings to the crank, that's it.
In my experience, if the crank is damaged and needs to be polished or otherwise cut, replace it. Honda's hardening process on their cranks only gives a few thousandths of hardening, and then you get into the softer inner material. If you cut too much, you compromise the strength of the crank, and you'll have tuning and reliability issues down the road [been there, done that].
Also, you shouldn't consider line honing the mains on the block unless you really want headaches.
So, what you do is match up your main bearings based on how they clearance out, and go with slightly over or under sized accordingly PER main. You're not going to get the same size bearing at every location without a lot of work and luck. Rods are the same way, match the bearing needed with the journal it's going to ride on for proper clearance and don't worry about trying to get them all the same size.
For the record, this is the method I've used with OEM honda bearings, and, as with my car which I rebuilt the engine 7 years ago, aftermarket bearings.
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-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Gonna have to disagree with you there, I've gone through this every time I do a honda lower end.
You're matching the bearings to the crank, that's it.
In my experience, if the crank is damaged and needs to be polished or otherwise cut, replace it. Honda's hardening process on their cranks only gives a few thousandths of hardening, and then you get into the softer inner material. If you cut too much, you compromise the strength of the crank, and you'll have tuning and reliability issues down the road [been there, done that].
Also, you shouldn't consider line honing the mains on the block unless you really want headaches.
So, what you do is match up your main bearings based on how they clearance out, and go with slightly over or under sized accordingly PER main. You're not going to get the same size bearing at every location without a lot of work and luck. Rods are the same way, match the bearing needed with the journal it's going to ride on for proper clearance and don't worry about trying to get them all the same size.
For the record, this is the method I've used with OEM honda bearings, and, as with my car which I rebuilt the engine 7 years ago, aftermarket bearings.
You're matching the bearings to the crank, that's it.
In my experience, if the crank is damaged and needs to be polished or otherwise cut, replace it. Honda's hardening process on their cranks only gives a few thousandths of hardening, and then you get into the softer inner material. If you cut too much, you compromise the strength of the crank, and you'll have tuning and reliability issues down the road [been there, done that].
Also, you shouldn't consider line honing the mains on the block unless you really want headaches.
So, what you do is match up your main bearings based on how they clearance out, and go with slightly over or under sized accordingly PER main. You're not going to get the same size bearing at every location without a lot of work and luck. Rods are the same way, match the bearing needed with the journal it's going to ride on for proper clearance and don't worry about trying to get them all the same size.
For the record, this is the method I've used with OEM honda bearings, and, as with my car which I rebuilt the engine 7 years ago, aftermarket bearings.
My issue with ACL is that they only make one std. size main & rod bearing. They only have "green" bearings. Honda OEM offeres 7 different sizes with plenty of possible combinations to get your clearances exact, with mix & match. When I built my B18C1, I established a "goal" clearance, and every journal was right where I wanted it. I had to order bearings 2 seperate times, however.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
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From: United States
YOU CAN'T HAVE DIFFERENT BEARING AT DIFFERENT LOCATIONS! It is like trying to make a curved line straight. I have asked everyone from parts people to engine rebuilders to clear up this misconception. NOONE has been able to answer to my satisfaction why would anyone change a bearing thickness in an engine. It throws the geometry of a balance by the wayside. The only reason I can find is that the hardness might a factor. Besides even the factory manual says plastic-guage everything. But I found that the process marks the bearing and it cannot be removed from the babit of the bearing with some disruption of the material. Soooo just make sure everything is measured accurately and plastic guage as little as possible. Mrbeenjamin By the way the weight of the rods on the hondas is within a few grams. That is the closest to the same as I have seen in many engines from all manufactures.