Originally Posted by
1stGenCRXer
Gonna have to disagree with you there, I've gone through this every time I do a honda lower end.
You're matching the bearings to the crank, that's it.
In my experience, if the crank is damaged and needs to be polished or otherwise cut, replace it. Honda's hardening process on their cranks only gives a few thousandths of hardening, and then you get into the softer inner material. If you cut too much, you compromise the strength of the crank, and you'll have tuning and reliability issues down the road [been there, done that].
Also, you shouldn't consider line honing the mains on the block unless you really want headaches.
So, what you do is match up your main bearings based on how they clearance out, and go with slightly over or under sized accordingly PER main. You're not going to get the same size bearing at every location without a lot of work and luck. Rods are the same way, match the bearing needed with the journal it's going to ride on for proper clearance and don't worry about trying to get them all the same size.
For the record, this is the method I've used with OEM honda bearings, and, as with my car which I rebuilt the engine 7 years ago, aftermarket bearings.
I'm, not always the best at trying to put my thoughts on paper, but what you said is exactally what I've been trying to describe in all theese bearing threads latley. I agree that you should only use an OEM, un-molested crank. I was only explaining crank-resurfacing to show the reason that ACL manufactures larger & smaller thicknesses.
My issue with ACL is that they only make one std. size main & rod bearing. They only have "green" bearings. Honda OEM offeres 7 different sizes with plenty of possible combinations to get your clearances exact, with mix & match. When I built my B18C1, I established a "goal" clearance, and every journal was right where I wanted it. I had to order bearings 2 seperate times, however.