Does anybody know of a simple way to remove the eagle rod bearing caps without disturbing plastigauge? The dowels are tight as hell, I tried using a large adjustable wrench to "rock" the caps left to right but it keeps smearing the plastigauge. And yes I realize the 1 and 5 main caps must be installed in order to help hold the crankshaft in place. This picture was takin right after I checked Main Journal oil Clearance.

Reason: The machine shop that built my bottom end decided to use ACL bearings. This would be fine if they ground my crank to the bearings, but they didn't. They took .010 off my main journals, and .020 off my rod journals. I don't think they were aware of hondas percise oil clearances. So i'm trying to plastigauge with the ACL's so I can get the correct honda bearings. Thanks in advance!

 

i use a dead blow hammer(plastigauge one the 2 rods up the rotate the crank and plastigauge the other 2 rods)oiling your dowels also helps.

 

Yea I did oil the dowels, and lightly tapped with a rubber mallet. They are just extremely tight after they've been torqued. By the time I can finally get them off they smear the plastigauge. I didn't move the crank at all during this procedure. 2 trys on each rod and got the same results. I'll try again tomorrow, if nothing else ill just buy an inside micrometer. I never had this problem with OEM rods!

 

Sense I didn't get many reply's theres probably no need for this but...

:dunno: Not sure wtf my problem was before, I got good measurments today... Realizing that the caps aren't threaded, I just put the rod bolts in half way and tapped them with a mallet. Got good results that way!

Sometimes it just takes a few :beer: and a better:closeup:.

 

ya just get an inside mike or t snaps put your baring in the rods and tork them and and get a reading them mike the crank take you two readings and do the math.probably going to be the easy way.i don't under stand your last reply

 

I know how to get all the figures, I was just checking for oil clearance with plastigauge & the rod caps were so tight I couldn't get an accurate reading.

It's all good, got it figured out. I think my crank is toast...

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=252811

 

if its not to bad you might be able to turn the crank down at a machine shop if you are trying to produce a lot of power thow that would not be a good ideal the more you turn a crank down the weaker it gets plus you would have to use oversizes bearings.you rod id(inside diameter)might not be rite or you bearings are to thin.i have seen some wired shit when i used to work at a machine shop.is the crank dark like it spun a bearing or no oil(plugged oil hole).hope it all gos good.shit never mind you posted all that info up top.so you just going to get a new crank then hu.

 

Nope, its nice and clean. Machine shop did a regrind though, and I can't find the correct bearings... .010 mains & .020 rods. Guess i'm gonna just get a new crankshaft.

 

sorry bud.i hate that (ok i built a 350 Chevy a long time ago not proud of it but that was before i started even looking at anything but hot rods got sick of it all went with Honda after building a couple at the machine shop.so on this 350 i got a new steal crank and i had to turn it and straighten it that pissed me off i just spent like 400 on the crank and i had to fix it)so i can relate.

 

Nothing wrong with a nicely done 350... I like domestics too, im an all around enthusiast. I just dont have the money to build one of those right now, still in college. Someday, i'll have a garage with 3 or 4 cars just for fun.

They sell undersize bearings for the regrind but I need in-between sizes because of honda's percise clearances. I'm sure this would work, but I want matched oil clearance like OEM. I just figure better to go ahead and shell out the $$ for a new crank, than have a spun bearing later. I'm gonna boost this motor so it needs to be 100%. Thanks for your input!