crv/vtec
well thanks i guess both swaps are almost the same, the difference isnotthat much now a car like those can be dayly driver ...........nowif i dont have that much money to do a ls/vtec or crv/vtec what isthe best engine to put on my H/B a CRV or and LS
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/
thanks
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/
thanks
well thanks i guess both swaps are almost the same, the difference isnotthat much now a car like those can be dayly driver ...........nowif i dont have that much money to do a ls/vtec or crv/vtec what isthe best engine to put on my H/B a CRV or and LS
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/
thanks
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/
thanks
An LS would be better! more aftermarket parts are available for the LS!!
Look for another ls motor!! you will have so many more options when it comes to aftermarket parts not to mention the ls is built to take more of a beating!!!
Experience, trial and error with 3 cars that me and my team own!!!
we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!
with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!
And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!
My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.
if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!
And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!
My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.
if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
Experience, trial and error with 3 cars that me and my team own!!!
we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!
with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!
And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!
My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.
if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!
And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!
My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.
if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
i dont like that thats why i bought a EVO MR tha shiet kicks
with other cars


