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crv/vtec

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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 06:04 PM
  #11  
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well thanks i guess both swaps are almost the same, the difference isnotthat much now a car like those can be dayly driver ...........nowif i dont have that much money to do a ls/vtec or crv/vtec what isthe best engine to put on my H/B a CRV or and LS
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/

thanks
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 05:56 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by colombian_jam
well thanks i guess both swaps are almost the same, the difference isnotthat much now a car like those can be dayly driver ...........nowif i dont have that much money to do a ls/vtec or crv/vtec what isthe best engine to put on my H/B a CRV or and LS
CRV engine = 600 bucks
LS complete swap = 700 bucks
whats the best ????????????????/

thanks
Both swaps are daily driver, i've been driving mine for 3years!! and both will pass emissions just as long as you have a catalytic converter on at the time of the test!
An LS would be better! more aftermarket parts are available for the LS!!
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 01:30 PM
  #13  
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if you can get a complete ls swap for $700 that's legit, jump on it. and ls parts = b20 parts. except pistons.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #14  
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thank u guys but i found out that the LS was hot and i dont mess with tha so im thinking on getting a B20 with a B16 tranny how that sound to u guys
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:11 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by colombian_jam
thank u guys but i found out that the LS was hot and i dont mess with tha so im thinking on getting a B20 with a B16 tranny how that sound to u guys
Look for another ls motor!! you will have so many more options when it comes to aftermarket parts not to mention the ls is built to take more of a beating!!!
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by primetime
Look for another ls motor!! you will have so many more options when it comes to aftermarket parts not to mention the ls is built to take more of a beating!!!
where do you get your info? seriously?
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 09:37 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
where do you get your info? seriously?
Experience, trial and error with 3 cars that me and my team own!!! we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!

with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!

And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!

My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.

if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 12:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by primetime
Experience, trial and error with 3 cars that me and my team own!!! we've built about 15 or so ls/vtec motors and 2 cr/vtec motors for people after going through trial and error on our racecars!! the crv sleeves weren't meant for high performance, even in the b20 vtec and thats why they are not as commonly used and when they are used the normally crap out between 15,000 to 20,000 miles!!! If he does do a b20 and want to boost it later then he might as well get the block re-sleeved asap!!!

with an LS if he chooses there are more parts available and he isn't going to need to re-sleeve an LS block if and when he decides that he wants more power and decides to boost it!!

And if you noticed somewhere around the begining i told him about the option of using the LS crank and rod in a GSR,ITR, or CTR block to get the desired result of an LS/vtec without wasting a bunch of time and money doing trial and error!!

My team and i are currently running 3 car and three different set-ups: a 93 civic hatch with a gsr head and ls block, a 95 integra gsr with an ls crank forged ls rod and forged pistons 20psi 375whp, and a del sol with a b20 and blew it after 2 months and 10psi sending a rod through the block and shattering the piston into 6 pieces as a result we needed to get a new b20 block and spend $1200. to have it re-sleeved.

if he is going to do bolt on and thats it no boost or nitris then go with a b20 but how many people do you know who if they are serious, stay with the bolt on or do no internal engine work!!
i only going to do a bolt on parts no boost or nos
i dont like that thats why i bought a EVO MR tha shiet kicks
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 05:01 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by colombian_jam
i only going to do a bolt on parts no boost or nos
i dont like that thats why i bought a EVO MR tha shiet kicks

that makes sense!! then just drop the b20 in and call it a day, i would focus on the evo after that!!
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 06:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by primetime
that makes sense!! then just drop the b20 in and call it a day, i would focus on the evo after that!!
in the evo i have a full exahust air intake and reflash in the computer turbo timer . and the shiet kikcs really nice but i would like to have the honda also at the side but no turbo it just for have fun because with my MR no one wants to race me so i wanna have some fun too
with other cars
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