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OK, I have my D15B2 engine block and I put an A6 head on it. Problem is is that my D15B2 piston rings are shot. I replaced the rings and apparently didn't align them correctly because when I reassembled it, it was still burning oil. I pulled the head and it's at the machine shop. Now all four pistons have oil at the top of them so I narrowed it down to this. My pistons are perfect circumference and my bore size is correct. I have the Haynes manual with a diagram of how to arrange the piston ring gaps. Problem is is that I can barely understand it. To get this straight, the rings that control and contain the oil in the bore are the three lower rings correct? Well, can ANYONE tell me where the two side rail gaps need to be on the piston so that I don't have any oil passing by them? Because this seems to be the problem here. Here is the diagram from the book but it says that C (one of the compression rings) need to be one inch either side of the piston pin centerline. While D (oil ring side rails) need to be on one inch either side of the pin centerline. How should I arrange the oil ring side rails? I'm not stupid just wondering because there are two C's and only one D and the D is in the center of the back of the piston (aligned with the pin centerline). Also, if these aren't aligned correctly, it would allow oil past the pistons and into the combustion chamber right? Please, I'm racking my brain on this and I have one of my pistons with the rings on it sitting right here. ANY help is GREATLY appreciated. I DON'T want this thing to burn oil anymore. It's an old tired engine but when I put it back together it ran AWESOMELY (minus the burning oil).

 

Alright guys. I've been doing this since I was 7 years old [which makes it 18 years], and have built 326 engines, with documentation on each, so how about we quit with the pissing contests?

As for gapping your rings. Yes, you ABSOLUTELY should gap your rings EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE THEM.

Part of gapping your rings is inserting them into the bore for measurement! Obviously, if they're within spec for the cylinder you're going to use it in, you're done! If they're too tight, then you file them, grind them, whatever method of opening up the gap you feel comfortable in.

If you're really anal about performance, you go with aftermarket rings the correct size, which are pretty much guaranteed to be too tight and trim for the lower end of the tolerance range.

As for the orientation of your ring gaps, just make sure no two gaps are lined up. The reason there are 2 'C' marks is because the manual you're using is showing you there are two places you have to chose where to put the gap.