which valves and cams for N/A build?

im planning on doing a decent all motor/nitrous build up for my b18c. i already ordered omnipower springs and retainers. next, i want to order valves and cams. i want to rev the motor to 9000rpms with the stock block. this winter i plan on building the block and after that i want to go a little higher, 9500. anyway. i wanted to get your opinions and ask a few questions. i need to know how to read cam profiles.
http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.a...For=&PT_ID=360
i like those cams. but i have no clue if they are for me or not. how do i find out if they will make power at 9500rpms? what other cams do you suggest? crower? skunk2?

and valves. do i want a flat or dished valve? whats the difference. im assuming that the flat ones add a little compression, but is that all? is it worth it to get oversized valves and then also pay the extra amount for headwork?
http://automotivespeed.com/product_i...roducts_id=149 those are the ones i was looking at.

anymore advise is appreciated. thanks.

edit: also what headwork do you suggest for this setup. i should probably also mention that my ultimate goal is 12's in a car that could potentially be driven everyday. i wont drive it but on the weekends. but i want the reliability.

 

12's N/A daily driven is going to be tough, unless your car is in the sub 1800lb range. If you're talking 12's with nitrous, that won't be too hard to do. If you're talking just on the motor, you'd have to run super high compression, and huge cams. Flat valves do exactly what you said, raise compression a tad. I would get something stainless, maybe with a heat coating for use under nitrous. Going 1mm over isn't a big difference. I wouldn't rev it to 9000 with stock rod bolts, but that's me.

Good port jobs aren't cheap, but you definitely want a respected person porting your head...portflow, alaniz, etc. The cam you get depends on what you're looking for. Nitrous loves big N/A cams, so you're in a good situation there. Toda, Crower, Skunk2, Jun, all make good N/A cams. Try to find dyno charts comparing them, or at least between them and a stock cam, so you can see where they make power. Check out www.importreview.com for some good cam dyno comparisons. Also, don't try and run something as extreme as Skunk stage 3's on a daily driven setup, or they'll eat up your rockers. It's pretty much a race grind cam.

 

its in a 90 civic hatch so weight is pretty good. and im looking for 12's with nitrous. i would hope for somewhere in the 13's without spraying. i ran a 14.155 with the motor completely stock and only launching at 2500 rpms. i'd like to cut 1.5 off of that. does this sound like a good way? how do i know if the valves have a heat coating? a pretty well known machine shop would be doing the port and polish job. how serious of a port job do i need for the setup i am looking at? it looks like a good cam for me would be skunk2 stage2 cams. but will they be serious enough for my goals?

 

You are doing everything ass backwards. You pick the cams you want, then you buy valvesprings that work with those cams. Once you pick those out, you choose your redline based on where your cams make power/what your valvetrain can handle. I hope you know what lift your cams can have without binding your valvesprings.

 

i dont understand how to read cam specs. can you explain that to me so that i know what im doing? i kinda already had cams picked out. but i dont know much about them because i dont know how to read the specs. i dont know how to tell when they make the best power, etc...

Cam Specifications:
Cam lift: IN 12.3mm EX 11.8mm
Duration: IN 306 EX 302

IN 37 BTDC (1mm OPEN) 52 ABDC (1mm OPEN)
EX 62 BBDC (1mm OPEN) 32 ATDC (1mm OPEN)

V/C IN .007 EX .008


Omni-Power valve spring measurements:
Seat pressure 55 lb’s
Coil bind 14 mm
Pressure @ 12.7mm/.500 lift 180 approx. +-1%
Max lift 13.2 mm

 

go to h-t and search for different cams. guys over there seemingly have tested every cam on the market with lots of info. :eek3:

imo, i like the rocket m22x for a cam with decent midrange that still makes power to 9k. the m22xx is supposed to have an even better midrange while still maintaining topend. my friend has a set for his b20vtec project that he has yet to put together.

 

i'll check there. the link posted above has a few comparisons, but i really dont know a lot about how to read cams...

 

http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/camspecs.html i found this. it helped me a lot. after reading this, and looking at the cam specs of a bunch of aftermarket cams, it looks like the buddy club spec IV will make a good ammount of power at higher rpms because of its duration.

http://www.allmotorhonda.com/techpages/camspecs.htm

 

i think i have finally come to a decision. i want either the Crower 63402A-2 or Skunk2 Stage 2 cams. anybody have any opinions?

edit: can some one explain to me why crower says
Stage 3 - All-Motor Drag Race profile.
Requires #84161 spring/retainer kit.
VTEC controller recommended.
23+ hp w/other mods.
they make it sound like its an extremely serious cam, but the specs are so similar to the skunk2 stage 2 cam, and skunk2 says that their cam is for moderate street motors.

EDIT2: how well will these work together???
Cam Specifications:
Cam lift: IN 11.84mm EX 11.81mm
Duration: IN 246 @ 1mm EX 239 @ 1mm

Valve spring measurements:
Seat pressure 55 lb’s
Coil bind 14 mm
Pressure @ 12.7mm/.500 lift 180 approx. +-1%
Max lift 13.2 mm

 

Those specs are pretty close to S2S2 cams. With a raised compression ratio, it will make some good power and still be very streetable when tuned. You will not acheive 12's with those cams, though.