Yet another turbo question…
Reliability and turbo, in the same sentence.
I have a 95 Civic coupe. To replace my LS Integra, “RIP”
I don’t have twenty grand, so I cant do everything at one.
Step 1. B16A2 swap.
Step2. Coil overs, sway bars, exhaust.
Step3. ADD a Turbo.
Step4.Rebuild motor.( all balls)
When I add the turbo it will be on stock internals. So what would be a safe WHP goal.
And I don’t want to replace the turbo after I rebuild the motor.
I don’t want anything crazy but I want it to be worth the money I put into the motor rebuild.
But not to contradict myself, I still want to hang with Turbo 350 Z’s

I’ve been told to go with a Garrett GT2860RS.

As far as the reliability, I was thinking a turbo timer and AEM EMS ECU.
Please give comments about the turbo setup.
I was thinking about 300 WHP after the motor is rebuilt or would I run into traction prodlems?

THANKS
shane c.

 

Step 3 and 4 should be switched around.

The EMS is overkill for a low power turbo application.

FWD cars will always have traction problems, regardless of turbo or not. There are ways to counteract that, so be prepared to invest in a beefy suspension, traction bars, LSD, slicks, etc if you want to keep the tires from spinning.

 

thanks, dude.

What ya think about hondata?
Would tracction bars work with sway bars?
So 300WHP is low boost? Would that give a 350 turbo a headache??

So if I rebuild before the turbo, what would ya replace??

PORT AND POLISH HEAD AND INTake.
Rods
sleeve the block
new forged pistons at 8.5 comp.

Please give your thoughts?
THANKS
shane c.

 

oops,

what about,
Valves
Crower,springs-retainers-cams and can I get away with out a loopy idle?
thanks,
shane c.

 

Hondata is what I would recommend. If you are a DIYer, I would look into Crome instead as an alternative because it will be a little cheaper overall and has the same features.

Look into a stiffer suspension with adjustable shocks and good tires before you think about traction bars.

If you look at how intercooler piping is ran, you will see you don't need an intake. Sleeving is really unnecessary with the power goals you have. As long as you have a competent tuner, you should be able to squeeze a lot of power out of stock sleeves. The compression rate you are looking at is too low, IMO. I would shoot for the 9:1 to 9.5:1 ratio.

Here is what I would do since I am kind of in the same boat, but cheaper and it is my daily driver, so I can't be sending the block off for sleeving or anything that requires a good amount of downtime:

Eagle Rods
Weisco Pistons 9-9.5:1 CR
ARP/GE/AEBS Head studs
Good tune with Hondata/Crome/Uberdata/Neptune
550cc or larger injectors

Leave the head alone unless you have fully maxed out the turbo, the bottom end is strong, and want a little more power. In that case, a light cam upgrade would be beneficial. A lopey N/A cam can be run, but you will have to have some of the excessive overlap dialed out with cam gears on a dyno.

 

send me your email,
thanks,
shane c.

 

Just PM me.

 

I agree with schmoo...
I got a B16 w/ GSR head and LS pistons- IMO for a much cheaper setup, replace the b16a pistons with LS pistons, it will give a much lower Compression ratio. In addition, replace the piston rings...
Unless you want to run high-power - 300 WHP+ the eagle rods and wiseco pistons are overkill... But if you got $$ then I would certainly upgrade them...
The sleeving, as schmoo says, is unnecessary IMO... I've heard of b-series holding up to 30psi before being distorted...

Just make sure you got good tuning, if not it won't be fast and it will prob destroy your motor... Hondata is good though...

And as for the other things, it really depends upon the size of the turbo and such... If you wanna run a monster turbo, you will need a stronger valvetrain for sure...