Lost Motion Assembly B16A
Does anyone know what a bad one sounds like?
I have this clicking, and I am trying to pinpoint what it is without takin the cams and everything out...
Does a LMA click (most of the time) consistantly, and sometimes randomly?
The noise is cooming from the drivers side of the #1 cylender near where the intake manifold meets the head. That is where the LMA's are right?
Also, how can I tell if it is bad by looking at it?
I have this clicking, and I am trying to pinpoint what it is without takin the cams and everything out...
Does a LMA click (most of the time) consistantly, and sometimes randomly?
The noise is cooming from the drivers side of the #1 cylender near where the intake manifold meets the head. That is where the LMA's are right?
Also, how can I tell if it is bad by looking at it?
I can tell you right now that you have bad LMAs. I had a buddy that had this ticking problem that I couldn't pin point, even after a valve adjustment. He was reading up and thought that replacing them would get rid of the ticking. He replaced them and the ticking was gone. I guess it is a common problem with first gen B16s.
If you want to go through the effort to test them, just push them with your finger from every angle and if it isn't smooth at all times, it has rusted out and needs to be replaced. Just pick up a full set of ITR LMAs...they are pretty cheap.
If you want to go through the effort to test them, just push them with your finger from every angle and if it isn't smooth at all times, it has rusted out and needs to be replaced. Just pick up a full set of ITR LMAs...they are pretty cheap.
Wow, thanks, I was waiting for someone to come up with somthing...
What is the replacement like? I hope it does not involve removing the head?
Or can I just take the cams out?
What is the replacement like? I hope it does not involve removing the head?
Or can I just take the cams out?
Originally Posted by racerdave
Wow, thanks, I was waiting for someone to come up with somthing...
What is the replacement like? I hope it does not involve removing the head?
Or can I just take the cams out?
What is the replacement like? I hope it does not involve removing the head?
Or can I just take the cams out?
Use this: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/ma...e%20manual.pdf. It has all the torque specs for everything and the removal procedure for the rocker arms and such.
You will have to get a large allen socket that fits into the rocker shaft bolts.
It's a problem in first gen B16's because the heads are so old...they're high mileage and very worn.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Originally Posted by dubcac
It's a problem in first gen B16's because the heads are so old...they're high mileage and very worn.
Originally Posted by racerdave
k, but if the head was just taken in to a machine shop, and had a valve job, wouldnt they have noticed somthing like that?
can I test them without takin everything apart?
P.S. I am havin a hard time finding any for sale, the ITR ones from the stealarship are like 30$ a pop x 8 thats 240.. I dont want to spend 240.. I was thinkin around 170... Anyone?
P.S. I am havin a hard time finding any for sale, the ITR ones from the stealarship are like 30$ a pop x 8 thats 240.. I dont want to spend 240.. I was thinkin around 170... Anyone?


