This should be a fun excercise for some of you real brains out there...

I have an obd0 integra. Looking for an engine to pop in her, but thinking separate parts may be the way to go. I've wanted to build an engine for a while and I have the following parts:

- 2 x b18a complete engine w/ manual tranny (including what's in the car)
- p30 w/ pw0 plugs
- 99 si b16a intake manifold, throttle body.

I have easy access to the following parts:

- full GSR head - loaded
- full b16a block (no pistons or rods)

So.. first - please don't suggest ls/vtec, as it would require either burning obd0 roms or converting to obd1 and buying a hondata, due to the knock sensor issue. Next, a couple questions:

1. Is it possible to use the b18a pistons / rods or am I looking at sourcing either b18c or b16a pistons / rods? If the latter, which? If either, which gives more power?

2. Although I have the crank from the b16a, could I use a b18a or even a b20 crank to make better power, if at all?

If your answer depends on the long term goal (FI vs. NA), it's all motor.. maybe with nitrous at a later date.


Thanks in advance. Creativity welcome!

 

Sounds like an interesting project.

You are set on using the B16A block? I believe the B16A is actually a smaller block (in terms of deck height) than the 1.8L's (except the B16B Civic Type R motor which is a destroked B18C5) so I believe that means you are stuck with the B16A crank. I haven't done the measurements myself but that's what I understand from the internet scuttlebutt.

Why are deadset against LS/VTEC, especially if your planning to stay N/A? I think putting that GS-R head on one of your B18A blocks, stuffing it with something will land you around 11 - 11.5 : 1 compression (OE if it's cheap enough, aftermarket if not or you really plan to stuff nitrous down it's throat)and find yourself a first gen B16A cable tranny for the gearing and off you go.

There are pre-OBD B16A ECU's out there but I think it's $125 for a conversion harness to plug an OBD I ECU into the thing and that will give you a lot more tuning options.

If your sticking with the B16A block, I'd sell the rest and find a B16A head and bolt the thing together. Spend what you can on cams and hope for the best. I think you'll be a lot better off using the B18A bottom end with the B18C1 head with OBD I tuning options.

 

Strangely enough, I think I found the answer and it's ls/vtec after all. I wanted to make use of the pr3 I had *JUST* bought for the project, but the knock sensor thing irked me. Maybe there's an easy spot to insert a knock sensor on the b18a block that I'm unaware of, but.. regardless, the answer for me is simple: pgmfi.org. I can use BRE to disable the knock sensor in vtec ecu's once i'm set up with a zif socket in it and have a rom burner. piece of cake! Thanks.

 

I've read about someone installing the knock sensor into one of the alternator bracket mounting holes and it's possible that the B18A block has a cast-in blank for the knock sensor that's just not drilled/tapped. If you've found an electronic way around it, it's not even really an issue then. Good luck with your project.