So what is it?

 

I have no fuckin clue..I have never seen one before in my life....and I have seen some shit....h:

 

That's what I keep hearing...from every one...

Well incase anyone is curious, that wet nitrous kit on a 170bhp USDM GSR ( 80 shot ) is MORE than enough to walk an LS1 z28 from a roll @40mph all the way past 120mph...I love nitrous...till I get my snail...then I love boost OUT of the bottle...

This race occured in controled circumstances with EMS on site...( old blimp base near houston )

 

I'm not sure what it is but based on it's position and what it's hooked to, I"m guess a vacuum canister. Your power brake system relies on engine vacuum to assist with reducing how hard you have to push on your brakes. Try pushing the pedal with the engine off and you'll see the difference. I've seen V8 versions for guys who run high lift/long duration cams (the old muscles cars that barely seem to be able to idle) and therefore don't generate much engine vacuum. They will use a vacuum canister (might not be the right word, neve rmuch of a muscle car guy mysefl) to basically buffer and store the vacuum pressure and help the power brake system work properly even when the engine wasn't helping.

As for what it's doing on your car, my guess is the previous owner was having a brake issue and someone told him to install one to help out. On the factory honda line there is a white check valve that only allows air to flow one way. If the guy removed the facotry line and replaced it with one that did not have a check valve it may have caused the system to work improperly and so someone told him he needed a vacuum canister, which most likely would have a check valve built in. It was overkill but worked so it was left on. That or the guy had an extra cherry bomb glass pack and said "I'll bet this would look bitching under the hood, it's even red!". It's definately not an OEM piece I've ever seen.

Does the car have upgraded brakes. My old CX with it's 13/16 MC couldn't push enough fluid to properly operate a set of GS-R front calipers. The pedal would go to the floor like there was air in the system but it was bleed (that MC also had 150k miles on it). I replaced the MC with a 1" ABS GS-R unit and it worked fine. Maybe he tried the vacuum canister rather than upgrading the MC?

 

I'll double check on the brakes--the fronts might be upgraded, but the rears are drums-sfs(stock for sure)-can't imagine someone upgrading to different drums in the rear, why not just go to the rear disc? anyway, I've read all the stuff about brake swaps, and I don't think the brake booster in the hatch is stock...makes sense to install something that would increase the pedal stiffness if you didn't know to switch the master cylinders...

I'm guessing that I can pull the canister, and run a new stock line from the brake booster to the IM... and if the brakes are upgraded in any way ( need to replace the front wheel bearings, and I have full gsr knuckle assemblies w/rotors/calipers already in the garage and rear disc brake swap ready to go ) I'll just pop the 1' gsr abs MC on there...

 

I'm visually comparing my '98 EX and my old '92 CX, the EX definately has larger drums. Drums aren't as pretty as a disk setup but for the back of a car with less than 200 hp, they're fine. You will definately want better front brakes and a good set of pads though.

If you replace the line, make sure get the OE checkvalve as well or you might have the same problem. Also, memorize the configuration of your facotry hardlines and compare them to the 1" MC you look at. The one I bought (probably from an older GS-R - '94-'95) had a larger diameter fitting and one on either side of the MC. I looked at a later GS-R (and I think a Type R) and they both had the same diameter fittings and both on the fender side of the car (like my OE civic lines). I ended up having to cut the line, replace the fitting, and reflare the line and bend it to the other side to make my MC work. Get the right MC and you'll be much better off.

 

Well, this engine is being pulled and rebuilt for boost this summer...The brakes work fine as it is-so I'll wait untill the engine is out to mess with all the brake stuff so I'll have alot more room to work with...yeah, I'll definately make sure to get the MC ( be it a 15/16ths 88-91 civic ex, or teg type R 1" or what ever ) which everone lines up with the brake lines--read your DIY--I am NOT reflaring brake lines...I have chubby fingers...

 

Ha ha, we had a big crash a few years back and all the hybrid forums archives got erased so I didn't' realize some of my old posts are still around.

The stock brakes are fine for stock power levels but put a set of $14 brake pads in the front calipers of a CX with around 2.5x the amount of power it had before and they are woefully underpowered. Pushing my old hatch hard for 2-3 minutes on the back roads would burn the brakes up enough that engine braking became a necessity rather than a driving technique.

My '98 EX has a 15/16" MC that's always been sufficent for that car. If you can't find the 1" GS-R that will bolt in, you could always consider upgrading to the Civic EX unit.

 

a piece of crap. i looks like a glass pack :lmao: id order a stock one, or go to a junk yard, get the grey connector for the center and buy new tubing.

 

I'll probably use the 15/16ths MC so I can bolt it up with out changing the booster( or trying to find a GSR 1" with the right flange to connect to the DX booster-I've read alot where people get the 1"GSR/type R, and the jackass behind the parts counter thought they knew better and got a part that wasn't right--stuff like the bolts didn't line up right--mc bolts go / , and booster bolts go \ , or something like that...the conclusion was that the 15/16ths MC bolts up right for sure, and 15/16ths might as well be 1"--it comes out to 0.9375 inches), and seeing as how the brake lines will already line up with the 15/16ths MC for sure...


PS--anyone got part numbers for the 15/16ths, GSR 1", and a 40/40 proportioning valve? I called Autozone, and O'Riley, and they have changed thier inventory #'s since that thread with this info was published...