Idle fine, sure...he has a STOCK MOTOR. You have boost...nuff said. I never said they wouldn't idle, I just think that 550 is way big on a stock motor...I'd think he would still run rich no matter how much the injector was trimmed back.

 

As for prelude injectors, the 92-96 prelude VTEC had 345cc peak and hold injectors...different than your bseries saturated.

 

Ok, well how about the mods I've listed with only headwork? If I replaced the cams, valves, valve springs, retainers and did a head only rebuild, would all that stuff be worth it then?

 

They can be trimmed back far enough. My engine doesn't require anymore fuel out of boost then a bone stock engine, A lot of driving is out of boost.

If the engine can idle fine (thats the leanest point) the rest of the rpm range will be just as good being that the fuel requirements only go UP from there.The engine will require more fuel at 3k rpm then at 750rpm, so if hondata can cut the fuel enough to get a 15:1 afr, I'm sure 13.5:1 afr is not going to be a problem.
Nuff Said.....lol

 

I'm sorry but you are wrong. It doesn't make a difference if the motor is stock or boosted. Hondata, Crome and Uberdata adjust fuel flow by changing the duty cycle of the injector. It's not like an AFC where you have limited adjustability. With Hondata you can adjust duty cycle anywhere from 1% up to 100%, even though 100% is not advised, so 85% is more realistic. The injector duty cycles for NA and a turbo setup will be the same from 26" vacuum to 0.94" vacuum. The only difference between the turbo and NA setups is the fuel maps for the turbo have expanded cells for boost.

At 7500 RPM's and 0.94" in/hg the injector duty cycle for a set of 550's will probably be around 30-40%. On an NA setup this condition would be WOT near redline. On a boosted setup, it would mean the car has very little throttle input, just enough throttle to keep it at the verge of being boosted. But the injector duty cycle for 7500 rpm and 0.94" vacuum stays the same regardless of boost or NA.

 

And to answer the original question. I think you should wait until after installing the turbo to install the larger injectors. You can install the pump, an FPR (if you have one) and all your ignition stuff. However if you install the injectors now you'll end up having to retune them after the turbo is in.

What I did for my turbo setup is install the pump, a few weeks before the turbo install to make sure there weren't any bugs. Theon the day of the install I put all of my turbo stuff on. With the stock injectors I started up the car and let it idle for a few minutes. This was to make sure I did the install correctly, and if there were any problems with the idle or anything the injectors would not be the cause. If you install injectors at the same time as the turbo stuff and you run into any problems then it will be harder to trouble shoot, because you would have to rule out whether or not the injectors are a cause of the problems.

So install the turbo stuff with stock injectors, crank the car up just DO NOT BOOST IT. Check for leaks or any signs of a weird idle. If it all runs good, then swap out injectors, and adjust them with your Hondata. The car will probably idle rough at first, but at least you'll know it's the injectors causing it. From there you just adjust idle AFR with your wideband, etc etc.

 

Thats a good idea....Limit the sources of problems so if once does arise the sources are few..makes troubleshooting a lot easier when your tracking 2-3 possible causes vs 10....

 

Good info again. Thanks guys.

Unfortunately I won't be needing the info - my car was broken into and the engine seized while I was driving it home the same day. I'm still not sure why it seized - I'm having someone rip the motor apart to tell me what happened. So, I won't have a stock engine soon, or I won't be in my Accord...

 

Sorry to hear that man, I HATE theifs.