So, i'm thinking of putting a B20 bottom end in my '94 EG hatchback civic, it has a b16a2 in it right now, i have done I/H/E and a apexi VAFC2.
*Do you use all the stock B20 and B16 parts??
*I have a DC 4-1 header, will it still have clearance from the block? Is the
block the same size outside as the B16?
*Does it use the same engine mounts as the B16?
*Do u use the B16 or the B20's timing belt (cam belt) and other belts??
*Any other problems heard of when doing this?

Thanks for any help

 

I'll give it a stab...
Yes you use stck b16 and b20 parts (not sure what you mean by that)
I believe it should clear, if not it's going to be close. I'm pretty sure that you can use a b16 manifold on a b18c and the b20 is the same as the b18 except it's 84mm vs 81mm (bore)..
Same engine mounts are used.
I believe you use the b18c timing belt, I'm not 100% sure on that one, but it sounds about right...

 

b20's have weak ass bottom ends. boost the b16.

 

...he said nothing about boosting the B20...

 

Yeh, i'm not really planning on boosting, i'm trying to keep N/A.
So just how weak are the B20 bottom ends? ive heard the sleeves go on them? Do you have to put extra oil feeds in them?? and will i have to drill fit a vtec solinoid and knock sensor to that block? ant more info on it?

 

N/A you should be fine. The vtec solinoid is on the head. Go to www.goldeneagle.com they have a vtec conversion kit that will make your life easier. I do recomend upgrading the main and rod bolts. I've heard of them stretching from high rpm abuse. Depending on the age of the motor, you may as well throw some new bearings in there too.
Just don't slap the head on there and expect to safely rev to 8,500rpm like some people do....
Just bypass the knock sensor, it's not required.

 

hell eventually get bored with it, and hell want boost. hell kick his own ass then for using a b20 bottom end

 

I dont think i'll get bored, but you never know untill you actually do it.
I'll worry about that when i get bored tho.
So it should be ok for N/A then?
which B20 should i get, i heard ther are differant ones like a B20s and B20z etc?
Will i need the extra oil feeds that ppl were talking bout?\
I'll get new bearings and bolts etc, is ther a company that do better than stock bolts that i can buy?
thanks

 

arp bolts would be the best. use either oem or acl bearings. youll need an oil feed line for the vtec solenoid, check out stealthmodeperformance.com for good prices on lines, kits, etc. i would personally just get a b18 block and bore it a lil bit. boring a b2o could be kinda risky. if ur serious about staying NA, i would go with some forged high compression pistons. if ur not sure. some 9:1 forged would be good for either or. on average, each 1 higher is ten psi
so if u have say 160 stock on 9:1, then with 10:1, theorhetically ud gain about 10hp, so 170hp, in theory

 

Your not going to gain any displacement by boring out the stock sleeves.
I would just keep the block stock, unless he's 100% sure that he will take it to the next step...It's almost pointless to swap pistons if he doesn't know if he's going to stay N/A or go with forced induction...The stock compression is going to be around 9.0:1 - 9.5:1 depending on the set-up, so to make it worth while he should know which route he's going to take.
All motor...11.5:1 or so... going boosted....stock internals until he has enough money to sleeve the block and buy rods and pistons..