Need help on removing a crankshaft bolt
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Need help on removing a crankshaft bolt
I'm replacing a water pump seal and, unfortunately, need to first remove the
timing belt on my 93 Vigor (manual transmission). It's my first time.
I found an excellent and detail step by step instruction from the internet. It suggested that I use a crankshaft pulley tool to hold the pulley still while
losening the crankshaft bolt.
However, no one carry that tool around here. Well, can I hold it by putting the car in gear and let someone step on the brake instead of using this tool?
The bolt was tighten to 250 N m. My weight is about 650 N, much less than
the baby Vigor.
Is there anything I misunderstood about the design of
how and what this bolt is holding.
Can anyone help me understand this?, so that I can have peace b4 I get to
that pain-in-the-butt part.
(^_^)
timing belt on my 93 Vigor (manual transmission). It's my first time.
I found an excellent and detail step by step instruction from the internet. It suggested that I use a crankshaft pulley tool to hold the pulley still while
losening the crankshaft bolt.
However, no one carry that tool around here. Well, can I hold it by putting the car in gear and let someone step on the brake instead of using this tool?
The bolt was tighten to 250 N m. My weight is about 650 N, much less than
the baby Vigor.
Is there anything I misunderstood about the design of
how and what this bolt is holding.
Can anyone help me understand this?, so that I can have peace b4 I get to
that pain-in-the-butt part.
(^_^)
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
What do u mean by a crankshaft pulley tool??
Do u mean a chainwrench?
They should sell a chainwrench at an autoparts store or at a hardware store...
I HIGHLY suggest u get the right tool, b/c u don't wanna break anything while trying to take off your pulley... Or it will be a real pan in the ass!!
It doesn't matter what your weight is while stepping on brakes, they're hydraulic...
The Newton-Meter unit comes from the multiplication of force*distance...
there is no "moment arm" when u step on brakes, only force that is stopping pulley from turning is the shear force of the piston of your brakes and the rotor... Not good...
chainwrench is about 40 bucks, I had to buy one, along with 2 ratchets and 2 breaker bars. So, consider urself lucky if u get it done without breaking anything...
Do u mean a chainwrench?
They should sell a chainwrench at an autoparts store or at a hardware store...
I HIGHLY suggest u get the right tool, b/c u don't wanna break anything while trying to take off your pulley... Or it will be a real pan in the ass!!
It doesn't matter what your weight is while stepping on brakes, they're hydraulic...
The Newton-Meter unit comes from the multiplication of force*distance...
there is no "moment arm" when u step on brakes, only force that is stopping pulley from turning is the shear force of the piston of your brakes and the rotor... Not good...
chainwrench is about 40 bucks, I had to buy one, along with 2 ratchets and 2 breaker bars. So, consider urself lucky if u get it done without breaking anything...
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That's totally a good point. I messed up my ball joint's thread when I did my cv axle 4 the first time and that was the real pain.
But the force that I have to overcome is only 250 N m. I just thought if I lock the fly wheel/crankshaft with transmission and clutch and block all the wheels with wedges and brakes, it should be stronger than wrestling against another person holding the crankshaft pulley holder (I'm not sure weather it's the same thing as chain wrench), which is a movable part anyway (that's what I thought how the tool works, I'm not sure), then use a long cheater bar. If I can get it as long as one meter then I only need alittle more than 250 N of force to overcome. That's just slightly over 1/3 of my weight. But all that, is under one condition (hopefully not 2 or 3, like the bolt has welded to the nut)....that the car won't move, which I thoght it shouldn't becasue it's against the gravity. Yet, I still doubt that if this works why doesn't every body use the method. More over, I'm not clear about what the bolt is really holing or attaching to.That's why I posted the thread to see what other problems could occure.
Thanks 4 the advise, Since the worst that could happen is moving the car(low risk), I think I'll try my method once with the chain wrench next to me, standing by 4 back up if my method sucks.
But the force that I have to overcome is only 250 N m. I just thought if I lock the fly wheel/crankshaft with transmission and clutch and block all the wheels with wedges and brakes, it should be stronger than wrestling against another person holding the crankshaft pulley holder (I'm not sure weather it's the same thing as chain wrench), which is a movable part anyway (that's what I thought how the tool works, I'm not sure), then use a long cheater bar. If I can get it as long as one meter then I only need alittle more than 250 N of force to overcome. That's just slightly over 1/3 of my weight. But all that, is under one condition (hopefully not 2 or 3, like the bolt has welded to the nut)....that the car won't move, which I thoght it shouldn't becasue it's against the gravity. Yet, I still doubt that if this works why doesn't every body use the method. More over, I'm not clear about what the bolt is really holing or attaching to.That's why I posted the thread to see what other problems could occure.
Thanks 4 the advise, Since the worst that could happen is moving the car(low risk), I think I'll try my method once with the chain wrench next to me, standing by 4 back up if my method sucks.
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Originally Posted by musikpal
That's totally a good point. I messed up my ball joint's thread when I did my cv axle 4 the first time and that was the real pain.
But the force that I have to overcome is only 250 N m. I just thought if I lock the fly wheel/crankshaft with transmission and clutch and block all the wheels with wedges and brakes, it should be stronger than wrestling against another person holding the crankshaft pulley holder (I'm not sure weather it's the same thing as chain wrench), which is a movable part anyway (that's what I thought how the tool works, I'm not sure), then use a long cheater bar. If I can get it as long as one meter then I only need alittle more than 250 N of force to overcome. That's just slightly over 1/3 of my weight. But all that, is under one condition (hopefully not 2 or 3, like the bolt has welded to the nut)....that the car won't move, which I thoght it shouldn't becasue it's against the gravity. Yet, I still doubt that if this works why doesn't every body use the method. More over, I'm not clear about what the bolt is really holing or attaching to.That's why I posted the thread to see what other problems could occure.
Thanks 4 the advise, Since the worst that could happen is moving the car(low risk), I think I'll try my method once with the chain wrench next to me, standing by 4 back up if my method sucks.
But the force that I have to overcome is only 250 N m. I just thought if I lock the fly wheel/crankshaft with transmission and clutch and block all the wheels with wedges and brakes, it should be stronger than wrestling against another person holding the crankshaft pulley holder (I'm not sure weather it's the same thing as chain wrench), which is a movable part anyway (that's what I thought how the tool works, I'm not sure), then use a long cheater bar. If I can get it as long as one meter then I only need alittle more than 250 N of force to overcome. That's just slightly over 1/3 of my weight. But all that, is under one condition (hopefully not 2 or 3, like the bolt has welded to the nut)....that the car won't move, which I thoght it shouldn't becasue it's against the gravity. Yet, I still doubt that if this works why doesn't every body use the method. More over, I'm not clear about what the bolt is really holing or attaching to.That's why I posted the thread to see what other problems could occure.
Thanks 4 the advise, Since the worst that could happen is moving the car(low risk), I think I'll try my method once with the chain wrench next to me, standing by 4 back up if my method sucks.
I'm saying I've done this half-ass and I've done them the right way...
I know it's easy for me to sit here and tell u to buy the right tools, but I don't really understand how else u will do it...
First u just named like 5 different things that are supposed to stop the crank from moving while u loosen pulley, yet what u don't realize is how many radians (degrees of rotation) must u turn the bolt to get it off?? Basically the force moving through all those seperate parts just adds more DEFLECTION into the problem, so I bet if u did do it the way u r explaining, the car would move before the bolt does. And if the car doesn't move, the clutch would most certainly deflect (move).
Also, u r expecting your clutch to transfer ALL your force into those other components, and I don't think that's gonna work...
If u r gonna buy the wrench, don't try and prove yourself right cause it could cost ya some $$.
Later
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Now that's clear. I just bought a pulley holder, where u can put a socket in the middle, from Amazon.com (got to buy amazon's stock now, almost 100% of internet store I serched link to amazon).
I'll use the tool. May be I'll try my method in the future, with a junky car just for fun. For this time, got to listen to the older advise.
Thanks for taking all your time helping.
The bolt does nothing more than keep your pulley from falling off of your engine...
I'm saying I've done this half-ass and I've done them the right way...
I know it's easy for me to sit here and tell u to buy the right tools, but I don't really understand how else u will do it...
First u just named like 5 different things that are supposed to stop the crank from moving while u loosen pulley, yet what u don't realize is how many radians (degrees of rotation) must u turn the bolt to get it off?? Basically the force moving through all those seperate parts just adds more DEFLECTION into the problem, so I bet if u did do it the way u r explaining, the car would move before the bolt does. And if the car doesn't move, the clutch would most certainly deflect (move).
Also, u r expecting your clutch to transfer ALL your force into those other components, and I don't think that's gonna work...
If u r gonna buy the wrench, don't try and prove yourself right cause it could cost ya some $$.
Later[/QUOTE]
I'll use the tool. May be I'll try my method in the future, with a junky car just for fun. For this time, got to listen to the older advise.
Thanks for taking all your time helping.
The bolt does nothing more than keep your pulley from falling off of your engine...
I'm saying I've done this half-ass and I've done them the right way...
I know it's easy for me to sit here and tell u to buy the right tools, but I don't really understand how else u will do it...
First u just named like 5 different things that are supposed to stop the crank from moving while u loosen pulley, yet what u don't realize is how many radians (degrees of rotation) must u turn the bolt to get it off?? Basically the force moving through all those seperate parts just adds more DEFLECTION into the problem, so I bet if u did do it the way u r explaining, the car would move before the bolt does. And if the car doesn't move, the clutch would most certainly deflect (move).
Also, u r expecting your clutch to transfer ALL your force into those other components, and I don't think that's gonna work...
If u r gonna buy the wrench, don't try and prove yourself right cause it could cost ya some $$.
Later[/QUOTE]