OK, I will.

Everything you have said has been contrary to what I have been told, so I think I will stick with my chipped ecu over some ghetto ass FMU and hack setup.

the hack and my set up are totally differnt in the fact you can run an exponential amount of boost with the set up I said as long as you have the motor to handle it. honestly you won't run out of fuel with that set up for a long long time

fmu != afc hack. with the hack atleast you can tune. i've never seen an adjustable fmu..but you know why that is.. because i don't even bother looking at those junkers.

im gonna be a big kid here and stop arguing. its clear you'v had success with an fmu and im glad. good for you. glad you didn't blow it up. and for me, iv'e seen NOTHING but insane numbers, and perfect air fuel ratio's outta my friends who are on uberdata. so thats the route im going.

have a good day all

Hey,
First of all, this thread is getting hilarious. One guy says FMU worked for him perfectly, yet another says it's gonna blow my motor.

Let me explain the situation...Before you go and start talking trash about my bro and his VR4, and that I should go talk to him about my problem, listen to me... I'm not here to downplay the information you guys give me, it's just that everyone is saying I should go with Chrome or Hondata. And please don't tell me that I "just read stuff out of magazines", becuase I do all my own work and hence get my own experience. Give me some hard evidence that an FMU will blow up my motor...I've seen the tests in Sport Compact Car and such on S2000's and GSR's and Si's with vortech kits etc., which all have high comp ratios, that use an FMU, and they are GUARANTEED to work.

I haven't attacked anyone here on their knowledge, but it seems people like to think they know EVERYTHING. As for "RAIDEN571", explain to me this.. If I were to have spent upwards of $3000 for a REVHARD kit, or even a Vortech supercharger system, which comes with an FMU, would u still tell me to go and buy more parts? On SUPERHONDA, it's quoted that a REVHARD kit is very good, and that one who buys it will be very happy... Name one company who uses UBERDATA with their kits?? they don't, they use FMU, so ALL KITS SUCK? WTF man??
What about the numerous kits that use FMU such as Vortech, DRAG, and pretty much everything out there except Greddy and totally custom setups. Please don't lecture me on the theory of heat engines and Thermodynamics, because I've taken these classes, have you?? You say you have seen cars blow on 6psi with an FMU, fine but what was the cause/setup. All I get is "you're an ass" and "I'll laugh when it blows up" , thanks for YOUR help, NOT, LOL.

Just to get one thing straight, I'm sure everyone knows already, it won't "blow up", unless it's detonating, which can only come from a LEAN mixture, If an FMU supplies more fuel rather than less, then it's not gonna blow up, just won't run it's full potential. More air=more fuel, in a linear curve.

For your INFO I DID BUY THE KIT FROM
SLOWBOYRACING.com which is very reputable, so I hear,
Which is where my bro with his PRESENTLY hooked up, 13sec VR4, got his previous 16G for his Talon.

I bought a kit from a reputable dealer cause I wanted a Legit kit that would work, yet everyone here tells me it's shitty and it's gonna blow up.
The kit comes with everything, including a MAP computer box, so I don't need the missing link.

Also, I told my bro what responses you guys r giving me and he laughed b/c for the most part everyone here is their own professional, dude says use uberdata, next one says hell no, use FMU works fine... Vortech has engineers working for them, who designed the FMU for use on low-boost applications, including high comp ratios like S2000 (11:1). Many other kits use these, including Comptech, yet I cannot get any hard data that says these are soooo bad for my engine. Besides a couple of you who are hell bent on Uberdata and chrome, the FMU is said to work fine.

Also, BoostedITR41, I understand your explanation, but on the turbo I got with the kit, the internal wastegate rod is threaded, which can be lengthened, so when the pressure pushes the actuator, the wastegate port will open more for a given pressure difference. Trust me, I adjusted it and now my boost is at 5psi.

Let me explain the situation...Before you go and start talking trash about my bro and his VR4, and that I should go talk to him about my problem, listen to me... I'm not here to downplay the information you guys give me, it's just that everyone is saying I should go with Chrome or Hondata. And please don't tell me that I "just read stuff" Give me some hard evidence that an FMU will blow up my motor...I've seen the tests in Sport Compact Car and such on S2000's and GSR's and Si's with vortech kits etc., which all have high comp ratios, that use an FMU.

If anything, I'm going to get a VAFC and larger injectors (maybe DSM), that should take care of it all together, prob like $300-400. I'm not doing the cheap datalogging way, with massive amounts of wires hanging out of my dash.

So, I thank all of you, and I respect all of your advice, but please lay off the bad remarks.

I got a 10:1-17:1 A/F guage from Defi, I'm gonna hook it up today, I'll keep u posted.

Later
Mike

Mike,

DSM is a totally different animal. If you do NOT have a wideband O2 just get chrome or uberdata and get a base map from someone. that is the advantage over a FMU. do not attempt to tune with that defi gauge.

dataloging has nothing to do with wires everywhere. if you have a standalone you simply datalog what it reads.

PS- AF ratio is only part of it. with the FMU you have no timing control which is a bigger problem than af ratio IMO