I would never run an FMU either...nor an AFC "hack." I'd run a hondata/uberdata, or an AEM EMS if I had the cash. The new hondatas have an autotune feature...hook up a wideband o2, pick an A/F ratio, and it will do the work for you. There is also a DIY standalone system that I heard about, it costs like 100-200 bucks in parts, and also has an autotune...but I haven't heard much about how well it works.

Also, are you running a larger intank pump, or an inline high pressure pump?

 

oh yeah, sorry i have a walbro 255 fuel pump too. i'm considering uberdata, but i can't afford another ecu, distributor, and conversion harness to convert my car to obd-1 right now.

 

is your current car obd0 or obd2? If its obd0, you can just run crome, no need to convert to obd1.

 

it's obd0, i'll have to look into crome, thanks.

 

looks like crome is also obd1, did you mean turboedit? i downloaded te and it seems more confusing than uberdata...

 

Send a PM to PHiZ, he will help you out with everything you need.

 

madhandles03, when you ran an fmu did it run too rich while boosting to the point where the engine sputtered or bogged down? i can deal with the jerky transition for now, but the constant bogging i can't. oh and PHiZ said that i'm best off to convert to obd1 and run uberdata, which i can't afford right now.

 

ok, here's some more detail on my problem: when the car is not fully warmed up, it runs perfect-there is no jerky transition, everything is smooth during boost. once the car starts to warm up more, the jerkiness starts to get worse, and after about 10 minutes of driving, there is definite loss of power at full throttle at around 5 psi boost and higher. it's not so bad at like 3/4 throttle, but still there. my wastegate is set at 8 psi, which is more than i want to be running with the fmu, so i have been trying to be careful not to fully boost (btw is there a way to lower boost on an internal wastegate?). on hills at low speeds, the car barely has the power to make it up the hill because it gets caught right in the middle of the transition to boost and loses power. if you guys have any suggestions please let me know cause i'm out of ideas. what should my timing be set at? it's around 2 degrees retarded right now. also could it be something to do with my o2 sensors, like maybe one is faulty or the fact that they are side by side now instead of apart? thanks.

 

Hmm, I dont know what to tell you. The only things I can think of would be the timing is retarded way to much, you have a clogged cat, and maybe (but very unlikely), youre missing link isnt working so your map sensor is seeing boost which sends the ecu into limp mode. Have you tried checking for codes? Sometimes a car will throw codes but not show it, so Id recommend checking for that. Sorry I couldnt be of more help.

 

find out what your base timing is at. also could be detonation if the timing is to far advanced or retarded