ok, engine runs like a champ after the swap except it has a bouncy idle. The idle operates normally until I touch the throttle, then it moves between 1200-1800 rpms.
Here's what I have done so far:

THERE ARE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS
-Throttle body has been replaced
-Fast idle valve has been replaced
-Coolant system has been bled
-ALL vacuum hoses have been checked for leaks
-EGR system has been tested
-timing is dead on
-Idle control valve has been replaced
-throttle position sensor has been replaced
-Coolant temp sensor for idle control replaced
-Thermostat replaced
-Water pump replaced
-All wiring and vacuum lines have been verified
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When I lift up slightly on the EGR diaphram and let off the idle returns to normal, and then resumes bouncing as soon as the throttle is touched again.
Someone at a Honda dealer said that the EGR channel might need to be bored out, cleaned and replugged.
The engine is a Japanese import with very low miles. Other than the idle problem is runs great. I have also noticed that it DRINKS gas.

If you have any suggestions, PLEASE let me know. This problem is driving me crazy.

Brad G
matrix2k@bellsouth.net

 

your problem sounds like the EGR is not closing once it has opened. Be more specific about you lifting up the EGR diaphram. When you lift it up to open the EGR valve, does it idle rough or nothing happens? Heres what will happen. At idle th EGR is not suppose to open. It is suppose to open at part throttle. You state that when you lift it up and let it go the idle returns to normal and then idle resumes to fluctuation after you touch the throttle. I would have to say it's your EGR sytem or the EGR valve itself is being held open by carbon build up. Heres something you can do, let the car warm up at idle andfeel the metal piece of the EGR valve that is bolted to you intake manifold. When your idle is fluctuating, see if it's hot there or not. At idle it should not be hot, if it is youre EGR is stuck open.