I'm lookin at a 300ft/lb torque electric impact wrench to get the crankshaft bolt off my friends crx and some other cars... or do you guys think it'd be better to go air impact wrenches with even higher torque? I know it varies from car to car but shouldnt this be more than enough? I just dont want to end up buying it and have it not work for me.


http://www.toolsteal.com/index.php?c...0&prod_id=1646

 

i only own air tools ... my exp. with electric impacts is non exsistant.

im only posting to suggest NOT nailing bolts with 300ft lbs off the bat i've broken a few off before being a lil too zealous.

 

just rent one thats what i did when i changed my timing belt and balancer shaft belt

 

I pulled mine off last night with a 1 lb brass hammer and a 1/2 drive wrench. :dunno:

 

how did you keep the crankshaft from spinning?

 

OMFG i cant believe im reading this. I just went thru the EXACT same sh it this week. I blew my water pump last friday and I finaly just fixed it about an hour ago. And guess what held me up for the last 6 days??? yes thats right the FARKIN same bolt. I own a 600ft lb impact gun and it didnt phase the bolt. I tried everything. 5 foot breaker bars didnt budge it, my all mighty impact gun didnt. I ended up buying a plasma cutter and the did the job. i wish you the best of luck, i was ready to put a 200 shot of nos on my car and just blow the engine

 

There's a bunch of different ways to do this.. 1. Go get the special crankshaft tool. (about 80 bucks from Moroso). 2. Get a big ass strap wrench and hold the harmonic balancer. 3. Pull the oil pan and baffles, and wedge a two-by-four in between the block and the counterweights on the crankshaft. The wood will break long before the metal shifts. 4. If its a standard, put the car in fifth gear on the ground, turn your tires all the way to the left, have someone mash the brakes like a mofo. A big breaker bar (1/2" drive recommended) and about two-three feet of extensions, and it'll pop right off. I weigh about 120, and thats how I end up doing 99% of the time. Its only 140ft/lbs of torque. When you get it off, be sure to chase the threads, so you clean any corrosion that might have snuck in there.

 

actually in almost all cases that will work. But i actually did exactly what you just layed out except the car was on jackstands. And it didnt take it off.

 

I wrapped the alternator belt around the pulley, pinched it off, and held on for dear life.

 

I have been f***ing with that bolt for 2 hours. I have an oil leak that appears to be comming from behind the timing belt cover. Whatever it is blew out on my way home from work. I saw my oil light flashing so I pulled over at the next gas station. I checked my oil---BONE DRY. I payed gas station price 12.00 for 4 qts. of oil and 15 miles later when I got home ---BONE DRY. It was pissing from underneath. I had a basketball size puddle from 10 seconds of the car running. I haven't yet figured out where the leak is. The bolt is still on. I tried to use the allen wrench and screwdriver like the Haynes manual says, but everytime I get pressure on the bolt, the pulley slips. The allen wrench doesn't move and I actually have to back off the pulley to move the allen wrench. It's like something inside is slipping. Any other suggestions? I have to drive from Maine to Arizona next Tuesday and my car is torn apart right now. Lots of work and little time to do it. Any other help would be appreciated. I am also going to replace my A/C compressor while everything is off. Can anyone tell my where the three servicing valves are? I can obviously see the upper one in the front by the radiator, but I don't see the other two and I have to convert to 134a. Thanx guys and gals