200 WHP out of ITR?
Alright I have a 97 USDM Type-R motor with AEM intake, AEM underdrive alternator pulley, AEM underdrive power steering pulley. The last time I dynoed the car it was putting out 172 hp to the wheels. I would like to put out a minimum 200 HP NA and smog legal. If I could put out 220 HP at the wheels and still be smog legal I would be estatic.
So is 200 HP NA at the wheels and smog legal doable? If it is what parts should I get and how much will it cost me?
Is 220 HP NA at the wheels and smog legal possible? If 220 is what parts should I get and how much will it cost me?
When I say smog legal I just mean that it can pass the sniffer test no matter if the bolted on parts are smog legal or not.
Thanks in advance to all the help provided.
- John
So is 200 HP NA at the wheels and smog legal doable? If it is what parts should I get and how much will it cost me?
Is 220 HP NA at the wheels and smog legal possible? If 220 is what parts should I get and how much will it cost me?
When I say smog legal I just mean that it can pass the sniffer test no matter if the bolted on parts are smog legal or not.
Thanks in advance to all the help provided.
- John
__________________
99 Integra GSR
06 TSX
duck squad member #00003
99 Integra GSR
06 TSX
duck squad member #00003
Originally Posted by MrFatbooty
Deinfe "smog legal." Where are you located?
- John
Originally Posted by Asahi
Asuuming smog legal doesn't mean carb legal it would be very easy. The key will be in the tuning.
The most important choices will the cams you choose and the tuning system you pick.
The most important choices will the cams you choose and the tuning system you pick.
What kind of header should I go with?
Thanks for all the help!
- John
Originally Posted by Asahi
Asuuming smog legal doesn't mean carb legal it would be very easy. The key will be in the tuning.
The most important choices will the cams you choose and the tuning system you pick.
The most important choices will the cams you choose and the tuning system you pick.
Even CARB legal I think you could touch 200 whp with some Skunk2 stage 1s, the usual bolt ons, and a lot of dyno time.
Originally Posted by JoJa15
By "Smog legal" I just mean that the car needs to pass the sniffer test. I live in Denton County, Texas.
Originally Posted by JoJa15
What kind of cams should I buy? What should I use for tunning (VAFC, Hondata, AEM EMS?).
Between the Hondata and the AEM EMS, I would say it really depends on how much of a hands on car person you are. If you're probably just going to get the car tuned and then forget about the ECU side of things, go Hondata. You'll save a grip of money, and more tuners are fluent with Hondata than AEM.
The AEM EMS will give you the ability to do all sorts of interesting little things. For example, the project I'm currently looking at is using some of my low side grounds to create a Formula-style sweep of shift lights. You can also add and datalog additional sensors, try out the new traction control, blah blah blah you get the point.
On the other hand, when it comes to smog if you had an AEM EMS all you'd need to change to a smog safe tune would be a floppy disk and a laptop.

http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/files/...ease030910.exe - AEM software. Check it out.
On the Engine management side of things I have to advocate a Apex Power FC with Datalogit box and software as a strong option as well. It is easy to use, tunes on the fly (no chip burning) and can be changed while driving without a laptop if you have the commander.
These units are easy to use and can be had as cheap as Hondata (Depending on features) and way cheaper than AEM.
AEM is still the strongest option but might not net you any more power depending on setup.
These units are easy to use and can be had as cheap as Hondata (Depending on features) and way cheaper than AEM.
AEM is still the strongest option but might not net you any more power depending on setup.
The Power FC is hugely popular among FD RX-7 owners because it's for the most part the only reliable option out there and the most tuners know what they're doing with it. I know for RX-7 applications at least, it's over $1000. For the most basic Hondata setup which is all that's really needed when having an engine built, tuned, and then left alone (or only tuned by a shop), you can spend a whole lot less than that. Only the full-tilt-boogie loaded up Hondata with all the goodies and such but runs the engine essentially the same will run you similar in price to a Power FC.



: