Distributor problem
Sweet christ this is pissing me off.
I replaced my distributor cap and rotor cause I was getting erosion on the contact points. Also, since I got a sweet deal, I picked up some spark plug wires (All OE).
Anyways, I installed the cap, rotor, and wires with no fitment issues. I tried to start up the car and I couldn't get the car to catch (just kept turning over). So I tried replacing things one by one with the old parts... and eventually I just ended up putting all the old parts back on, and the bastard still wont start!! Any ideas on what to check for?
I replaced my distributor cap and rotor cause I was getting erosion on the contact points. Also, since I got a sweet deal, I picked up some spark plug wires (All OE).
Anyways, I installed the cap, rotor, and wires with no fitment issues. I tried to start up the car and I couldn't get the car to catch (just kept turning over). So I tried replacing things one by one with the old parts... and eventually I just ended up putting all the old parts back on, and the bastard still wont start!! Any ideas on what to check for?
I'm having sort of the same problem but I took it to the shop and they said they gotta change the ignitor, ignition coil, cap and rotor too. I'm still deciding whether to go through with it or do it myself.
I might not be the "whole" distributor, cuz that can cost a lot. Try changing or testing to see if the components of the distributor like the ignitor and coil work. If its not them, then I dunno. Just a suggestion....
Well, the thing that's killing me is that I changed out the rotor and cap as preventative maintenance... and while my car started before, it wont start now 
And I returned everything back to stock, and it's still dead

And I returned everything back to stock, and it's still dead
Have you checked for spark? If no spark...Check all of the little wires that go in to the distributor and then to the coil/ignitor. I know you had no issues with fit but I have experienced that they tend to get brittle and can come unattached if you look at them crosseyed, or the insulator can crack and ark away your energy required to spark the engine to life. if that dont do it...check coil resistance...and if you've got juice to the ignitor.
Actually, that's what I just came back in from doing... my resistance between the A and B terminals was in spec, but the resistance from the A to the secondary terminal, the one that gives juice to the rotor, was 3 kOhms under minimum spec... I probably blew the coil being lazy and cranking the engine until the rotor was in proper position... which worked on my old car, but after talking to a honda shop, can cause the coil to burn out...
Fawk... and I only trust OE, so it's gonna be a nice $80 to replace, if I'm lucky...
Fawk... and I only trust OE, so it's gonna be a nice $80 to replace, if I'm lucky...
When I checked it... it was about.... 60°... no less than 55...
A+B terminal resistance = .9 Ohm (.6-.8 Ohm is considered in spec)
A to secondary terminal = 9.57 KOhm (12.8-19.2 KOhms considered within spec)
A+B terminal resistance = .9 Ohm (.6-.8 Ohm is considered in spec)
A to secondary terminal = 9.57 KOhm (12.8-19.2 KOhms considered within spec)
Yeah, not too cold to make a difference... the specs ar given for 70 degrees but 10 degrees shouldn't make that much of a difference Sound like you found the culprit...Check your ignitor too just to be safe. It's a lot colder here. That sucks 2 Hours north and were damn near freezing
Originally Posted by Sdemon7
Yeah, not too cold to make a difference... the specs ar given for 70 degrees but 10 degrees shouldn't make that much of a difference Sound like you found the culprit...Check your ignitor too just to be safe. It's a lot colder here. That sucks 2 Hours north and were damn near freezing
heh... yeah... having a south facing beach does awesome things for moderating temperature... but I seriously doubt that the property values here are worth that :a:


