Problem w/ FITV i beleive???
I beleive my FITV is messed up in some way.
Reason: Car idles jump from 1k - 2k cold or warm weather.
Reason i beleive the IACV is good: Took it off cleaned, didnt work, took it off put a b16a one on there...didnt work, now my main reason why i dont beleive its the IACV and i beleive it is the FITV because it didnt throw a check engine light and w/ the sensor being there, wouldnt you guys think it would throw a check engine light on the IACV?
I have a 95 gsr supercharged, i beleive the FITV is under the throttle body. Anybody know an easy way of getting this bad boy off? How do i know if its bad or what not?
Im tired of my car surging =)
Thanks
-Jason
Reason: Car idles jump from 1k - 2k cold or warm weather.
Reason i beleive the IACV is good: Took it off cleaned, didnt work, took it off put a b16a one on there...didnt work, now my main reason why i dont beleive its the IACV and i beleive it is the FITV because it didnt throw a check engine light and w/ the sensor being there, wouldnt you guys think it would throw a check engine light on the IACV?
I have a 95 gsr supercharged, i beleive the FITV is under the throttle body. Anybody know an easy way of getting this bad boy off? How do i know if its bad or what not?
Im tired of my car surging =)
Thanks
-Jason
FITV – Fast Idle Thermo Valve
No leaks to be found =(
This is getting to be a pain in the butt! =) hehe but ya...i looked for about 2 days and havent been able to find any leak of any sort. Think if i take it to pep boys for a diagostic check they can tell me whats wrong w/ it? Or is that a waste of 80$
No leaks to be found =(
This is getting to be a pain in the butt! =) hehe but ya...i looked for about 2 days and havent been able to find any leak of any sort. Think if i take it to pep boys for a diagostic check they can tell me whats wrong w/ it? Or is that a waste of 80$
Unfortunately I don't have my factory manual here at school with me, so I can't help you on the mechanics of taking that baby off.
Do you leak boost at all?
IM gasket good?
Manifold bolted tightly against the head and not loose?
I had some crappy Hondata washers on my IM studs/bolts one time... totally skewed the torque numbers to tighten them down and I leaked vacuum horribly.
Do you leak boost at all?
IM gasket good?
Manifold bolted tightly against the head and not loose?
I had some crappy Hondata washers on my IM studs/bolts one time... totally skewed the torque numbers to tighten them down and I leaked vacuum horribly.
Not leaking any boost...dont have a IM, but the supercharger, all of the bolts are tight, all the throttle body bolts are tight, Kind of narrowed down the problem to this which i beleive it might be
FITVs are only on automatics. You have an automcatic GSR?
Also, I'm thinking several things could cause the hunting idle. I'm guessing it only happens when cold?
Here's the thing, if any one component is acting erractically, you're going to get a "pendulum" effect as the motor tried to correct for it. Kind like counter-steering on ice, ya know... too far one way, extreme correction, too far the other way.
Is now an oppurtune time to do a tuneup? How about the boost-bypass assembly on the supercharger (on a JRSC at least). O2 sensor, maybe.
Good luck!
-PHiZ
Also, I'm thinking several things could cause the hunting idle. I'm guessing it only happens when cold?
Here's the thing, if any one component is acting erractically, you're going to get a "pendulum" effect as the motor tried to correct for it. Kind like counter-steering on ice, ya know... too far one way, extreme correction, too far the other way.
Is now an oppurtune time to do a tuneup? How about the boost-bypass assembly on the supercharger (on a JRSC at least). O2 sensor, maybe.
Good luck!
-PHiZ
Hrm, I wonder what cars they come on then?
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/CivicManual/pdf/11-72.pdf
-PHiZ
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/CivicManual/pdf/11-72.pdf
-PHiZ
To check the FITV you can do this:
1) let your car warm up until the rad. fan comes on.
2) with the intake off stick your finger into the throttle body and cover the bottom hole toward the TPS.
3) if there is a vacuum pull at that whole in the throttle body your FITV is bad. The top hole is for your IACV. If you plug that your idle should drop.
FITV are on all models, autos, manuals from civics to preludes. Newer models have bypassed this component and simply use the IACV. On my B16 I made a thin metal plate and sandwiched it between the throttle body and FICV. Then ran the coolant hose direct from the block to the IACV. Takes longer to warm up, but the idle is always steady at 750 RPM. A new valve costs $40 and is only held on by three bolts into the throttle body. I would get new seals (3 of them) if you are going to replace it.
1) let your car warm up until the rad. fan comes on.
2) with the intake off stick your finger into the throttle body and cover the bottom hole toward the TPS.
3) if there is a vacuum pull at that whole in the throttle body your FITV is bad. The top hole is for your IACV. If you plug that your idle should drop.
FITV are on all models, autos, manuals from civics to preludes. Newer models have bypassed this component and simply use the IACV. On my B16 I made a thin metal plate and sandwiched it between the throttle body and FICV. Then ran the coolant hose direct from the block to the IACV. Takes longer to warm up, but the idle is always steady at 750 RPM. A new valve costs $40 and is only held on by three bolts into the throttle body. I would get new seals (3 of them) if you are going to replace it.


