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What to do to get 12's?

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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 12:00 AM
  #11  
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Originally posted by SadisticRacing
I plan on doing a full build of this motor top and bottom ends just was trying to get suggestions on what could get me there by next year.
Well, depends on if you wanna go all out or not.

First, I need to know exactly what your mods are. Some will need to be replaced I'm sure.

Not stage 1: Skunk2 stage 1 cams, Skunk2 valvetrain. Hondata.

Not stage 2: Stage 1 + CTR pistons, Eagle or Crower Econobillet rods. Hondata.

All out stage 1: B18C1 block or GE sleeve to 1.8 liters, CTR pistons (if GE sleeve then 12:1 CR forged pistons), Crower Econobillet rods, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valvetrain. Entire exhaust system should be at the least 60mm, preferably 2.5." Hondata.

All out stage 2: B18C1 shortblock and sleeve to 2.0 liters, 12:1 CR forged pistons, Crower Econobillet rods, Skunk2 stage 2 shizot, 2.5" exhaust. Hondata.


The first "stage" might get you to 12s with light rims, good tires, and a nice launch. Anything else should definately get you 12s.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 11:05 AM
  #12  
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The only mods to my engine our STR cam gears, STR fuel rail, STR 68mm TB, intake manifold, AEM CAI, DCSports Header, custom 2.5" exhaust with STR tip, no cat, and B&M FPR w/gauge plus the 75-shot dry nitrous Zex system.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 11:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally posted by SadisticRacing
The only mods to my engine our STR cam gears, STR fuel rail, STR 68mm TB, intake manifold, AEM CAI, DCSports Header, custom 2.5" exhaust with STR tip, no cat, and B&M FPR w/gauge plus the 75-shot dry nitrous Zex system.
why have cam gears if you dont have cams? :dunno: that fuel rail aint doing nothing. 68mm is huge for a tb with stock internals.
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 11:37 AM
  #14  
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Well since STR gave me a partial sponsorship that's why and I plan on getting cams this winter and the fuel rail is doing something because we had to up my fuel pressure due to the TB, intake manifold, and intake. There was to much air and not enough fuel.

If your not going to help then shut up please!!!
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 07:38 PM
  #15  
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i'd say the fastest way to get there is turbo... not a turbo KIT that you can get for $2000 + for the b16 but a junkyard turbo set up.... www.homemadeturbo.com they will really help you out there. i'd say a T3 turbo external wastegated, get new pistons and a new cam, valve and valve springs and you shoudl be able to push probably with tunning.. safely at LEAST 12 psi. you will def. be in the 12's with slicks then... probably low 12's. just my .02!
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Old Nov 13, 2003 | 10:26 PM
  #16  
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Thanks but I really don't want to do a turbo.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 11:16 AM
  #17  
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Originally posted by SadisticRacing
The only mods to my engine our STR cam gears, STR fuel rail, STR 68mm TB, intake manifold, AEM CAI, DCSports Header, custom 2.5" exhaust with STR tip, no cat, and B&M FPR w/gauge plus the 75-shot dry nitrous Zex system.
If the DC Sports isn't a JDM-style DC Sports then you'll definately want to move up to the 2.5" collector header. Also, your exhaust should me 2.5 mandrel bent, not crush.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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Yeah my header sucks but the exhaust is Mandrel. How much would a good header help me.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 12:17 PM
  #19  
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Gut your interior, increase the shot and get a set of full slicks. 12s fo sho.

With the money you would spend for an NA build, you could probably get a turbo kit.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 01:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by SadisticRacing
Yeah my header sucks but the exhaust is Mandrel. How much would a good header help me.
Right now, just a little. With more mods, a whole lot.
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