Just for you, Harry!
They came today.

Fully adjustable, as you can see. On the left there are two screws to set idle and WOT settings, just blocks the tabs at whatever point.
You can adjust each throttle individually with the couplers between them. Maybe not as pretty as Toda, but better than we anticipated.
The springs giving the throttle wheel tension are VERY beefy. Curious to hear your input on that.

Fully adjustable, as you can see. On the left there are two screws to set idle and WOT settings, just blocks the tabs at whatever point.
You can adjust each throttle individually with the couplers between them. Maybe not as pretty as Toda, but better than we anticipated.
The springs giving the throttle wheel tension are VERY beefy. Curious to hear your input on that.
:bowdown: :yumyum: :drool: :awais: I want! I want!Looks like TWM has had a redesign, and I must say, it looks HOTT. First time you have those suckers running sorta right and hit WOT [without the airbox of course
] you'll be singing "CAI VTEC WHAT?"
I suggest open intake and open header with ear plugs the first time you go to announce it's completion :thumbup: As for the return spring, that setup has more drag than a single throttle body, so a stiff spring in the stock setup is a good idea, keeps you from having to find another spring to get the plates to close like I had to with my carbs. Keep the pics coming.
__________________
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
-Harry
AIM: NDcissive
CRX and Pre '92 Civic, Engine Tech and Tuning, & Track and Autocross Forum Mod
Originally posted by 1stGenCRXer
As for the return spring, that setup has more drag than a single throttle body, so a stiff spring in the stock setup is a good idea, keeps you from having to find another spring to get the plates to close like I had to with my carbs. Keep the pics coming.
As for the return spring, that setup has more drag than a single throttle body, so a stiff spring in the stock setup is a good idea, keeps you from having to find another spring to get the plates to close like I had to with my carbs. Keep the pics coming.
And uh... how would I hook up a MAP sensor without an airbox feeding all 4? :dunno:
-EDIT-
:doh: Never mind, I could just use one of the vacuum nipples on the plenum.
Would that give me accurate numbers?
Last edited by qtiger; Jul 20, 2002 at 08:55 AM.
Originally posted by qtiger
Actually, there is a little helper spring on cylinder 2. :dunno:
Actually, there is a little helper spring on cylinder 2. :dunno:
And uh... how would I hook up a MAP sensor without an airbox feeding all 4? :dunno:
-EDIT-
:doh: Never mind, I could just use one of the vacuum nipples on the plenum.
Would that give me accurate numbers?
-EDIT-
:doh: Never mind, I could just use one of the vacuum nipples on the plenum.
Would that give me accurate numbers?
Originally posted by 1stGenCRXer
Yeah, that will be close enough for any computer you have to compensate for altitude, etc. You won't get max power all the time tuning by reading one cylinder exclusively, but it'll be real close.
Yeah, that will be close enough for any computer you have to compensate for altitude, etc. You won't get max power all the time tuning by reading one cylinder exclusively, but it'll be real close.

So should I run it in the airbox/intake tube or use one of the cylinders?
If you tap all 4 cylinders, you'll need 4 vacuum check valves, or else you'll get cross flow and horrible power, even though the cross flow between the runners will be small. Since the manifold vacuum should be relatively equal assuming you properly balance all the throttle plates, I would say just tap one and let the map read that, tap another one for your brake booster, and plumb your PCV, and your valve cover vents into the tube leading up to your airbox. Or, if you use a CAI, plumb the valve cover vent to the CAI, and find a way to plumb the PCV into the air box or airbox backing plate. The alternative to all of this is to say screw it and get a racing-type catch can setup.


