yah thats bs i downshift at almost every light, dont ask me why i know it saves ur clutch to just use the brakes, but for whatever reason i dont until the last moment, ive heard of clutches having lifetiime warrantees ill see if i can pull up any brand names next time i go to my parts store, never heard of one breaking that early id say their product was defective, i blew out a clutch in 2 years but it had over 40,000 miles on it within those 2 years so thats realistic, 8k is sh!t i blew out a clutch cable after midas installed a clutch for me when i was 16 (years ago now) and they fixed it for free cuz i had a year warantee on parts and labor. of course i install all my own stuff now

 

I forgot to ask, about how long did it take you to strip the car down to the point where you were holding the clutch in your hands? I am considering doing a clutch job in the near future, mine's been slipping bad for a while.

 

Considering about the only way I do clutch jobs on my car is with pulling the engine... and I've pulled0 it about 4 times... With an engine hoist and the car already on jackstands, I could probably have the engine on the ground in 5 hours. I can do it in 3 with someone helping. Unbolting the tranny and pulling off the PP only takes another 20 min. Putting it all back in takes about the same amount of time, usually more because I pay attention to make sure everything is hooked up and proper before starting the engine again, have way too much money wrapped up in it to be junking it...

All in all, if you don't need a flywheel resurfaced, you can do a clutch job with a full day's work at home.

 

I did my clutch when I had my engine out for the swap. The actual process of swapping the clutch with taking the tranny on and off was like a 30 minute job tops.

 

yah a full clutch job by myself would probably take about 3-6 hours depending on if i ran into any problems with rounded nuts, etc. hardest part is getting my hands down in there to take off that lower mounting bolt on a 2nd gen. and from there its just pumping up the jack which moves up so slowly, with the particular rom ive got on my hoist i literally have to pump that thing like 500 times to get the engine out, but maybe cuz its a 4ton crane? ehh at least its easier than alot of procedures, i dont mind changing clutches just hate it when i have to remove the timing belt, and really "get inside" the engine, now that takes time.

 

Just got the disk from UPS today. It is substantially beefier, let's see if it holds up
Flywheel side:

PP side:

 

your getting raped.

 

and how is that?

 

Well, I got the clutch in today and my car is living once again to terrorize neighborhood streets, highways and autocross venues!

As for the disk, the UR disk is MUCH thicker on the material the connects the friction material to the splined hub, and the rivets are much more substantial.

As for differences in driving: Again, kevlar is nice! Engagement is smooth, smoother than a stock clutch, yet holds like begeezus. After having both a sprung and unsprung hub with windowed kevlar, I can only say that sprung hubs just feel sloppy. I didn't notice before how much spring action you can feel in the car, because I've never had anything to compare to it before now :dunno: But there's no harshness between gears when shifting like people like to claim without first hand experience, and overall the car just feels more sure of it's gear shifting and power transfer.

Now the real test is to see if this clutch will hold up to the kinds of stresses I'm sure I'll subject it to. :huh: