My charging light has been flickering on and off for the last week. (sometimes more on than off; sometimes constant on).

Last night driving home my dash lights got really dim, the tach cut out, and the engine stopped running. (I know, the alternator is dead.)

My question is:
Can I repair it by replacing the brushes, brush springs, and insulator for the brushes and springs? (an $25 fix)

Or should I just replace the alternator with a rebuilt one? (around $100 for a good rebuilt alternator including core refund.)

Thanks,
Chris

 

I bought new brushes for my alternator for $3.99.

Disconnect Negative battery connection.

The hard part was removing the alternator. I had to remove the brake master cylinder to get the alternator out. (no problem, I had to replace the master cylinder anyway).

4 nuts to remove the back cover of the alternator.
2 screws to remove the brush assembly

A little work with the soldering iron to remove the old brushes and clean up the leftover solder.

Put in new brush springs.
Thread the copper wire lead in to the brush assembly.
Push the brush down against the spring so it's at its maximum extension
Clamp the tag end of the lead back to the screw terminal
Apply solder to where wire threads through
Repeat for second brush.

Reassemble alternator
Install alternator
Reinstall brake master cylinder
Bleed brakes (LF, RR, RF, LR)
Connect negative battery terminal.

Minor push start.

No charging light (yes!!!)

 

Do you have a motor swap?

 

No motor swap.
Many hondas (toyotas, mazdas) use the same alternator. (NipponDenso)

I drove home tonight in the dark. No problems. (bright headlights and dash lights; reflecting back since I got this car, maybe the alternator was only working partially. Now, all the electrical stuff seems to work better. Like it's getting full voltage and amperage instead of voltage at the low end of the operating range.)

Note: you could probably do all the work I did to my alternator by removing it from its mounting bracket, disconnecting its electrical connections, and removing the back cover without having to pull the brake master cylinder. (but, then you have to deal with tight quarters and the possibility of dropping/losing bolts and screws)