maybe your in fourth gear? lol (ok...being serious now) unless the needle is jumping around....you dont have a problem. did you just put the rims on? the reason i am asking is because maybe you were used to a certain rpm...and then you put the rims on?

clutch slipping would be my guess also...but i think you would have noticed that in the other gears not just fifth. so how is your clutch??? stinky? mooshy? even after you raced the si??? you did say you messed up your 1st to second shift?? maybe you just burtn the clucth a little bit after beating on it?

cel would have nothing to do with the revs compared to a certain speed.

 

Rim size has no affect whatsoever on the reading you get from your gauges. It's the overall diameter of the rim+tire that affects it. I do agree that smaller rims are better though.

 

I will put my life on it, a lighter flywheel will give u a higher RPM than normal at highway speeds, do some research, I did. A heavier (stock) Flywheel will hold mor inertial mass than a lightened one, thus the lighter one will not hold as much inertial mass, and make the rpms higher at highway speeds.

Anyone, please correct me if i'm wrong, if you have a lightened flywheel you will know what I am talking about.

 

No you're wrong. When the flywheel is engaged by the clutch, regardless of mass, the only thing that determines rpms is the transmission and FD gear.

 

No, the rims are the same ones that I've had on since I bought the car last year. On the highway, I typically drive 70-75mph and RPMs are in the 4000-4500 range. Since that one day when I noticed that the RPMs were in the 5200+ range at 70mph, the RPMs went back down to normal for a couple days and now for the last two days I'm back up to the 5200ish range. If you do the math, that's a 25% increase in RPMs to attain the same speed. Something's not right.

The needle on the tach isn't jumping around or anything weird.

I don't notice anything abnormal in the clutch but maybe I just don't know what I'm looking for. I guess what I'm saying is that nothing is blatantly obvious. I've got good pedal pressure and the shift seems to be fine. What do you mean by a "stinky" clutch?

When I messed up my 1st to 2nd shift all that really happened is I missed my shift spot. My tack only goes up to 8000 but the b16 redlines at 8200 and it's hard to gage a good shift at the high side. I over-revved it a little.

Could a bad o2 sensor be to blame?

 

yes that looks VERY bad!

 

i got a Zc in mine and when i'm going 80MPH in Gear i'm at 4000 soooooya

 

Please, please do not put your life on it. The flywheel has no affect in any way shape or form on the gear ratio. 1 rotation of the crank will always = 1 roation of the flywheel, no matter how much it weighs.

 

you are correct on the whole enertia deal.....but all a lightened flywheel does is help the crank rotate faster. so you are correct in a sense..... if your flywheel rotates faster that means you can rev faster. it does not make your car have higher gearing or whatnot. sure you have less mass to rotate...so that jus means that you will get to that rpm quicker...not have a higher rpm at the same speed.

what i meant about stinky clutch...is just that. if it smelled like brakes. brakes and clutches are lined by the same metarial so if you burnt your clutch during that race where you missed second (and probaly drooped the clutch high for the launch) that might have caused the higher rpm right after. also...do you keep your foot on the clutch while driving on the highway? just a thought.

a bad o2 would not cause your rpms to be higher

just another thought....do you have a vafc? a friend of mine had some wires hooked up wrong and i rode with him. he raced it but it never sounded like it was going that high in rpms eventhough he was shifting at the so called 8,500. in reality he was shifting at 4,000 after he found it what was wrong with the wirining of the vafc.

the only thing i can say....is pay more attention. you should be able to "hear" the cars rpms by now. if your driving....dont look at your tach and try to guess at what rpm your at. now with this knowledge....go back to driving your car at the highway....does it really sound like it is at 5,200?? or do you think it sounds like it is at 4,000? honda tachs are very good compared to other manufacturers. i would assume you will find out that this is a wiring problem and nothing mechanical. just py more attention....you will also become a better driver when you can just glance at the gauges and not read or study them

 

Let me run this thought by you...please excuse my fuzzy logic. I don't know why I didn't think of this before. When I over-reved from 1st to 2nd, the rev limiter kicked in but...the engine should have been somewhere in the 9000 range (JDM b16) when this happened. The tach is US OEM and only goes to 8000 RPM. Is it possible that I exeeded the physical limits of the gauge and f'd it up? After all, the needle was buried. Like I said, the v-tech still kicks in strong in the mid-5000 but if it gets the signal for when to engage from the tach electronically it might think it's at 5500 when in reality it might only be at 4500.

I guess the only way to tell would be to go to the stealership and have them hook it up for a diagnostic. I'm sure they can read "real" RPMs somehow?