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which cv boots?

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 02:39 AM
  #11  
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However, ABS axles do differ from non ABS axles. The spline length on the inner side of ABS axles are longer than non ABS axles. Trust me, i went back and forth to the part store to find the right axle, and in the end, 90-93 integra w/ ABS axles fit into my s1 trans., as well as my friends crx with a ys1 trans.(b16a). So those axles would be the one's he'll need if he needs to replace the axle itself.
As far as the boot goes, I meant to say that either way, the CV BOOTS will come from a 90-93 integra w/ or w/o ABS, which I determined by looking at the two, have identical boots.
I read somewhere that the intermediate shaft determines which axles you'll have to buy...
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #12  
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The intermediate axle/halfshaft is important, since the SiR, Integra M/T, and Integra auto all use different halfshafts.

The inner splines are different on ABS/non-ABS 2G Integras? Don't they just have an extra gear ring around the inside like other Hondas?
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:56 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Kai
The inner splines are different on ABS/non-ABS 2G Integras? Don't they just have an extra gear ring around the inside like other Hondas?
I didn't think that they would be different, since most websites I have gone to about swapping say ANY 90-93 integra axles will work , but the splines on non ABS integra axles are about half as long as the splines on ABS integra axles. The spline count is the same, it's just the overall length of the splines themselves that are different.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #14  
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hey, I know im in the pre-92 forum, and I have a 96. But I have a question about cv boots. My car is at the dealer right now, free inspection. They said my boots are leaking and will need to be replaced. As of now the axel is fine. They quoted $310 for replacement. Is it possible to replace myself, and how difficult is it. I have access to a hydrolic shop lift and air tools.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:34 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by alanMI88
hey, I know im in the pre-92 forum, and I have a 96. But I have a question about cv boots. My car is at the dealer right now, free inspection. They said my boots are leaking and will need to be replaced. As of now the axel is fine. They quoted $310 for replacement. Is it possible to replace myself, and how difficult is it. I have access to a hydrolic shop lift and air tools.
$310!? That is WAY too much for just replacing cv boots. It should be more around $100. If u have access to the tools, then yeah, go for it, it's not too difficult to replace. You cut the clamps on the old boot, slide the axle out of the cv joint, careful not to drop the bearings inside, repack the bearings with grease, slide boot over, and clamp it back down.
I think i'm missing a step somewhere, but that's the basic explanation on how to do it.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 11:49 PM
  #16  
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wow.....first off....if your boot is torn....then that means the joint is contiminated. contaminated means that dirt and debris got inside...not to mention salt since it is winter. (if that applies) anyway....if the joint is clicking....then this means that the ball bearings have little pits and or not round from the debris.

your better off just buying new shafts. most come with a lifetime warranty which is a lot better then a lifetime warranty on a boot....if there is one. a new shaft would run about 50-70 at any local parts store.

if you did decide to go the "new boot" route......take off the old boot....there is a lock pin/washer on the inside most of the race/ballbearing combo. a "reverse" lock-pliers is needed. after the lock-pin wasjer is removed....grab a brass hammer and lighlty tap the joint off. some force might be needed but do not bang/dent up the race. the race is what the balls sit in. take out each ball which is going to be a tetris type style. they are in there in a mathematic way. clean each ball with solevant/gasoline. do not use water. installation is reverse of removal.

to replaxce joint......pull out old joint...put new in.

your call....you can see which one is way easier to do...and which one is less-time consuming...less messy....and which one comes with a warranty.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:15 PM
  #17  
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$310.oo is about right at the dealer I would like to know who would do both outer cv boots for $100.00 when the boots cost about $19.00 each. I do cv boots all the time I charge $75.00 per side plus parts.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 12yearhondatech
I would like to know who would do both outer cv boots for $100.00 when the boots cost about $19.00 each.
I would. I have the band tool to do it, too.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #19  
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just buy a new axle at your local parts store with lifetime warranty...I think I bought my entire GSR axle for like 50 bucks after core return
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 04:29 PM
  #20  
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I think new axles will be the route I'm taking. I just need to clarify the ABS/non-ABS spline thing. So far, I only took out the passenger side axle and found that it had the shorter spline. RevengeCRX just did the axle swaps on two CRXs and had to use the ABS axles (longer spline). Maybe the passenger side has short splines and the driver side uses the long splines? I'll be taking out my driver's side soon and I'll see what I've got currently right now.

I plan on checking out Autozone too to see if the part # is different for the left and right axles.

Autozone is only going to have axles for the 1992 b17 and b18. Everyone says to use the '90-'93 Integra axles for the swap. Does this mean that the 17 & 18's are the same and will be ok to use?
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