Hey guys. I know, I know, I researched and found that the 1st gen b16a redlines at 8200 right? Okay well why the hell does mine redline at 7200???? Maybe my tach is off or something, but that can't be true, because my old d16a6 redlined exactly where it was supposed to. Could the ecu be the deciding factor? When I purchased the motor from hmotorsonline a couple weeks back, they either threw in the pr3 or the pw0. I'm not quite sure which one I have, but shouldn't either one redline at 8200??? Help guys, I don't know what the hell is wrong!

 

Yes, the ECU will be the deciding factor. Is there a check engine light on? If there is something faulty in the ECU it may lower the Redline so something doesn't blow in your engine. But find another ECU like yours and then rev it up and see where it redlines.

 

Yes. CEL comes on indicating that the speed sensor is unplugged. I just couldn't get that cable to fit in the transmission right, so I left it unplugged. Also, my ecu was flashing map sensor a couple days ago, but shouldn't be flashing anymore. Would either of those codes cause the car to redline earlier?

 

the speed sensor might be the cause.

are you hitting a fuel cut?

 

If you VSS isn't hooked up Vtec shouldn't be working either, but that shouldn't affect the redline.

 

well at what point does the system cut the fuel in the finl gear for speed limitation? since it doesnt know the exact speed maybe it's just cutting it at 7.2k in all gears

 

I purchased a JUN Racing ECU and it removed the revlimiter and speedlimiter. and it does redline at 8200
so yes it is the ECU

 

Well after I cleared the ecu the other day, the engine now redlines at about 7.5k , so it's better, but not yet there. I think it could be the vss cable i left unplugged. It just doesn't fit right in the tranny...I don't get it. Did you guys that performed the swap have trouble putting the speedometer cable into the transmission too, or is it just me? Thanks for all the help!

 

By fuel cut, you mean when the whole engine sounds like it's gonna shut off (lights go dim, car sputters)? No, that's not exactly what it feels like. It just drops a bit in rpm, then shoots right back up. That's what a redline does right?

I noticed that Vtec wasn't kicking in like it should, but I still get that angry bumble bee sound until the CEL flashes on, then I believe Vtec doesn't work anymore.

 

what you described as a redline is a fuel cut... redlines are where an engine stops making useable power.

many manufacturers put fuel cuts just above the redline because there is no point to go any higher, and you are most likely just hurting the engine.

what i was asking is if the engine could go higher, and it can. just making sure of the strength of the engine.

now the speed limiter does the same thing, only it cuts at a certain rpm that coincides with a certain speed, if it doesnt know the speed i think it's just cutting because it thinks there is something wrong or it doesnt want you going to fast so it just cuts you off in all gears.

vtec doesnt kick. look at the torque curve of any vtec enabled car... the torque curve (the power you feel) stays relativly equal on most of them (on certain engine, most specifiacally the type-s engines of the 02-04 years had their vtec point set a little off from optimal, so the torque curve would begin to drop and then came back up.)

i'd say figure out how to fix the codes the engine is sending you vs just getting rid of them.