Alternator DIY...?
Alright, so I've searched the forum and can only find the DIYs for Preludes and 92+ Civics, so I have to ask if you guys don't mind..
Does anyone have one made/on a website for a 1990 Honda CRX D16 engine, stock. I need to remove my alternator to get it tested, and if its bad, I need to install a new one. So, I need a DIY guide for removal and installation of the alternator if anyone wouldn't mind posting a guide or helping out I'd appreciate it.
I'm trying to get this car's engine to run decent before I buy a new engine. Thanks ahead of time.
Does anyone have one made/on a website for a 1990 Honda CRX D16 engine, stock. I need to remove my alternator to get it tested, and if its bad, I need to install a new one. So, I need a DIY guide for removal and installation of the alternator if anyone wouldn't mind posting a guide or helping out I'd appreciate it.
I'm trying to get this car's engine to run decent before I buy a new engine. Thanks ahead of time.
its like one or two bolts, you should be able to take it off and replace it with just commmon sense. I did mine awhile back when i knew nothing about cars im sure you could do it. its a little tight but if you have another person there you should get it done.
There seem to be several methods to doing it. The easiest is to put the car on stands and take the lower part of the splashield/fender liner off on the driver's side. This exposes the crank and alternator pulleys. Then take both alternator bolts out and set the unit aside for a moment while you remove the bracket from the block-be very careful about the bracket bolts-they MUST go back in the holes they come out of! Be sure to disconnect the battery before beginning the project. you will also have to disconnect the wiring from the Alternator. The method I am offering requires a bit of wiggling-but is very doable without having to play with other parts of the engine bay. You can also take a look at the procedure in the Helm.
BTW: The simplest test is with a voltmeter. The battery should be at 12.7 with nothing ON. With the engine running it should read 14.1-14.4. If you get these reading the Alternator can be considered workeing properly according to the HELM. Load test devices will also give valid readings. There is always a possibility the ELD (regulator) in the underhood MAIN fuse panel is bad-but very unlikely.
1st. Disconnect your ground cable from the battery
2nd. Disconnect the cable from the top of the alternator (7 or 8mm) and Disconnect the 4 prong plug, usually green in color.
3rd. Unbolt the bolt on the top that secures the alternator bracket to the block. Leave the bolt that connects the bracket to the alternator because that is a pain in the ass and will just waste time.
4th. Jack up the drivers side and take the pivoting bolt out of the bottom of the alternator.
5th. Now the alternator should be free and you can move it. You can easily guide the alternator behind the block up through where the fuel filter is. Its a tight fit but it will fit.
6th. Buy a new alternator but make sure its not an Auto Zone and make sure you get a year or lifetime warranty. Best bet is an OEM but if price is a problem go to NAPA. And send the old one out and get it fixed up and have it push 100amps!
2nd. Disconnect the cable from the top of the alternator (7 or 8mm) and Disconnect the 4 prong plug, usually green in color.
3rd. Unbolt the bolt on the top that secures the alternator bracket to the block. Leave the bolt that connects the bracket to the alternator because that is a pain in the ass and will just waste time.
4th. Jack up the drivers side and take the pivoting bolt out of the bottom of the alternator.
5th. Now the alternator should be free and you can move it. You can easily guide the alternator behind the block up through where the fuel filter is. Its a tight fit but it will fit.
6th. Buy a new alternator but make sure its not an Auto Zone and make sure you get a year or lifetime warranty. Best bet is an OEM but if price is a problem go to NAPA. And send the old one out and get it fixed up and have it push 100amps!
well, I don't think it's my alternator anymore.
Here's what I did to check it...I did the voltmeter thing, it checked out find. I turned the car on by jumping it, and this is that happened afterwards.
I had the car on for about 30 minutes. I figured, that, if it was the alternator, the battery wouldn't get charged so it would die. Correct?
Anyways, assuming that that is correct, I let the car idle. I noticed that The car idled at about a solid 1,000 rpms, but every now and then it would jump strangely between 1,000 - 1,300 "violently". Whenever I revved the engine to about 2,500 or so, it would jump to 2,500 violently, go down some, and then jump back up (I wouldn't make it do that, I'd keep it at 2,500, it would just jump). So, would this be a fuel problem? an air problem? Something in my Fuel Injection/Air Box?
Why would it idle and jump RPMs so strangely.
Here's what I did to check it...I did the voltmeter thing, it checked out find. I turned the car on by jumping it, and this is that happened afterwards.
I had the car on for about 30 minutes. I figured, that, if it was the alternator, the battery wouldn't get charged so it would die. Correct?
Anyways, assuming that that is correct, I let the car idle. I noticed that The car idled at about a solid 1,000 rpms, but every now and then it would jump strangely between 1,000 - 1,300 "violently". Whenever I revved the engine to about 2,500 or so, it would jump to 2,500 violently, go down some, and then jump back up (I wouldn't make it do that, I'd keep it at 2,500, it would just jump). So, would this be a fuel problem? an air problem? Something in my Fuel Injection/Air Box?
Why would it idle and jump RPMs so strangely.


