new motor. now what?
well now that i have the b16a ive been after for almost a year i need something else.its just lacking something.its fine when im by my self but when i get one of my friends with me its just lagging cuz of the weight"big guys" so what should i do. i dont have the money for a turbo i dont want nos and a supercharger is just outa the question.i was kinda thinking i could beef up my fuel system .
1.AEM fuel rail
2.bbk fuel pump
3.venom fuel injectors.
4.later some kinda fuel controller. i.e "vafc,vafc2,venom 400 controll module.
would this give me some decent improvements for power? would it affect my idle? or should i just get a cam.if i get a cam then do i have to replace all my valves? i dont have much money to go around so im looking for something not to expensive but with resonable power.i was kinda thinking of going with the cam.i dont know what kind or brand but.
1.AEM fuel rail
2.bbk fuel pump
3.venom fuel injectors.
4.later some kinda fuel controller. i.e "vafc,vafc2,venom 400 controll module.
would this give me some decent improvements for power? would it affect my idle? or should i just get a cam.if i get a cam then do i have to replace all my valves? i dont have much money to go around so im looking for something not to expensive but with resonable power.i was kinda thinking of going with the cam.i dont know what kind or brand but.
It will give no gains in power over the stock fuel system at all. None. If you use larger injectors, you will actually loose horsepower if left untuned. If you don't have any mods that need more fuel, you won't need a higher capacity fuel system. Fuel tuning (like an APEX'i V-AFC and some dyno time) will grant better gains.
If you want a car that is unaffected by fat friends, buy something with a 5.0l or bigger engine. If you love Hondas, you have to live with it.
A reground/aftermarket cam is a good idea though.
If you want a car that is unaffected by fat friends, buy something with a 5.0l or bigger engine. If you love Hondas, you have to live with it.

A reground/aftermarket cam is a good idea though.
hmm.what brand cam? i dont know how to replace valves springs .what is a descent cam that offers good performance with out affecting idle to bad? i was thinking a skunk2 b series vtec stage 1 or 2 theyare being sold on www.inlinefour.com "a shop in south cal" for $712.50 ..im looking to pay half that maybee around 400 bucks .if its noticeable gains and its worth it i will have no problem shelling out the cash"after bills,and i get my tranny to stop grinding" do you know of any brands that are cheaper?but still good quality?thanks kai .you have helped me more than anyone on this or any other forum.
Thankfully there are piles of companies that make cams for DOHC VTEC engines. Crower comes to mind immediately (to be honest, it's because I am a B18A1 fanatic, and Crower makes my favorite cam, the 404) but they have an excellent selection of cams for B-series VTEC engines. I have heard rare reports of Crower cams breaking, however... it is very unusual, but there is that one in one thousand risk.
I am less familiar with Jun and Toda offerings, but they also make good cams. I haven't heard reports of them breaking, but they are also more expensive then Crower cams so there are less around to break.
Take a look at the specs of availible cams, and see how aggressive you want to get (and what you can afford, considering aftermarket springs and retainers.) Thankfully, the VTEC system allows the primary lobe to be pretty fair, allowing a decent idle, while the VTEC lobe can be highly agressive allowing max accelleration. You don't have nearly as much to worry about a poor idle as B18A/B and B20B/Z guys do, however nothing quite intimidates the other guy as much as a lumpy idle. It's a glorious sound to hear.
I am less familiar with Jun and Toda offerings, but they also make good cams. I haven't heard reports of them breaking, but they are also more expensive then Crower cams so there are less around to break.

Take a look at the specs of availible cams, and see how aggressive you want to get (and what you can afford, considering aftermarket springs and retainers.) Thankfully, the VTEC system allows the primary lobe to be pretty fair, allowing a decent idle, while the VTEC lobe can be highly agressive allowing max accelleration. You don't have nearly as much to worry about a poor idle as B18A/B and B20B/Z guys do, however nothing quite intimidates the other guy as much as a lumpy idle. It's a glorious sound to hear.
hmm.ok 745 bucks for the skunk2 cames.
what about switching my head to a gsr head or a b16 type r head?
how much more power would come from this and about how much do you think it would run?it would just be easier for me to ubolt the old head then bolt the new one on.
what about switching my head to a gsr head or a b16 type r head?
how much more power would come from this and about how much do you think it would run?it would just be easier for me to ubolt the old head then bolt the new one on.
Originally Posted by A_PHOBIA
hmm.ok 745 bucks for the skunk2 cames.
what about switching my head to a gsr head or a b16 type r head?
how much more power would come from this and about how much do you think it would run?it would just be easier for me to ubolt the old head then bolt the new one on.
what about switching my head to a gsr head or a b16 type r head?
how much more power would come from this and about how much do you think it would run?it would just be easier for me to ubolt the old head then bolt the new one on.
You'll get a better gain from the cams, the P72 GS-R head is slightly different the yours with no serious advantage (plus you have to use a funky intake manifold with it) and the PR3 Type-R head has better springs and cams, and slight porting... again, not worth the effort when your head with a couple new cams will outflow it anyway.
Don't forget the PR3 GS-R head, it's identical to yours but still came off a GS-R (92-93, B17A.)
Don't forget the PR3 GS-R head, it's identical to yours but still came off a GS-R (92-93, B17A.)


