do it yourself man.....a sheet of MDF will be more than enough for miistakes...

 

well, the first box i built was not MDF, (MDF doesnt resonate nicely, i used sure-tread), sure tread is a bit more a sheet, than i used fir 2x4's and oak trim, stained and varnished, and then i veloured the top of the box.

 

I'm going to start on my box project soon. A 0.5 cu. ft. sealed box that will fit in the spare tire well for my newly aquired Nakamichi 12

 

WinISD.

Learn it. Use it. Love it.

Just an FYI - the manufacturer recommendations on enclosures are often a compromise for space. Most times you can get a much better frequency response using a different size enclosure, or one tuned to a different frequency. I have a hard time believing that any 12" woofer will work to it's potential in a 0.5 cubic foot enclosure.

 

Nakamichi recommened 0.5-0.85cu ft. so I'm guessing the sub will perform best within that range - probably better to be closer to 0.85cu ft., but I like the idea of a tiny hidden enclosure Using 3/4" MDF, the enclosure will have outter dimensions of 14" x 14" x 7" when I am done, just hugging the woofer

 

what is winISD?

 

Software that allows you to input your driver's thiele/small parameters and plot frequency response curves based on different types & sizes of enclosures. It'll even calculate box dimensions for you. Steep learning curve, but an extremely powerful tool.

Give me the specs to that Nakamichi sub & I'll prove it . . . . . Diamond Audio recommends a ported 1.5^3 enclosure for it's 12" M3. I had to double that in order to get the best performance out of it.

 

hey ziggyziggy what's up.
u need a build a box eh? well let me know what speaker u get & i'll run it thru my box program (& anyone else), i can design anything w/ this baby, that & i am a computer drafter this helps quite a bit when building. to find the volume of a box it's as simple as: (in inches) base X the height X the depth, then divide that # by 1728. this represents the cubic feet of air space. of course u need to take in account for the thickness of the wood, most use 3/4" since it's pretty strong & available. u can shrink the size of the box a bit & include some polyfill because it slows down the sound waves & makes the speaker "think" it's in a larger enclousure. shrinking the box will usuall allow for a tighter sound & higher wattage handling & a larger box will produce lower ( & looser) bass w/ less power handeling. ported boxes are alright, but sealed are usually far more accurate. hope this helps, but if anyone needs i can run my program for them no problem :thumbup:

 

Here's the specs:

http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/subwoofer/sp_w124s.htm

 

I can't do much on my work computer (pentium 166mhz . . . . ), but when I get home I'll plot it out.

But from what I see so far, it looks like that sub would be begging for a ported enclosure.