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what do you guy's suggest making a box out of?

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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 03:22 PM
  #21  
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be careful with your box volume...some subs are extremely picky about box size. boston pro 12" (what i have) require EXACTLY 1 cubic foot. more or less and you'll damage the sub. this is one of the reasons tweeter is phasing out sales of those subs...too many replacements because of bad box design. i love them tho...one of the best i've heard in the price range.

fiberglass is difficult to find volume from...if you have the room, try to build a solid, regular shaped (squared off) 3/4" MDF box and use fiberglass to surround the box location for whatever design you are trying to do. fiberglass can be a bitch to leakproof, especially in high SPL installs.
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Old Jul 5, 2003 | 07:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by SoCalAccord
Why would you avoid cubes?? My Boston spec sheet sugested a half of a cube as a box. Goodluck!
cubes, have real problems with resonation and the creation of standing waves, both are BAD if you have a loose trunk with rattleing problems
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Old Jul 5, 2003 | 11:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by jfiedler
be careful with your box volume...some subs are extremely picky about box size. boston pro 12" (what i have) require EXACTLY 1 cubic foot. more or less and you'll damage the sub. this is one of the reasons tweeter is phasing out sales of those subs...too many replacements because of bad box design. i love them tho...one of the best i've heard in the price range.
I hate to say this, but I totally disagree with ya...while they may not sound optimal in anything but a 1 cubic foot box, you could play it all day long in a 1.2 ft^3 box and the thing wouldn't blow. There's only two ways to blow a sub, exceed the thermal limits on the coil or exceed the excursion capability of the suspension....neither happen because of a simple 10-20% increase in the size of the box.

berglass is difficult to find volume from...if you have the room, try to build a solid, regular shaped (squared off) 3/4" MDF box and use fiberglass to surround the box location for whatever design you are trying to do. fiberglass can be a bitch to leakproof, especially in high SPL installs.
It's difficult to find the EXACT volume of, but it's easy to approximate. To leak proof a 'glass install, take some resin, and mix in some cab-o-sil filler (basically talc) and then add hardener. You now have what is known as a milkshake. Coat the inside of your box, and you will have no leaks what-so-ever.
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Old Jul 5, 2003 | 11:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by Technodigifreak
cubes, have real problems with resonation and the creation of standing waves, both are BAD if you have a loose trunk with rattleing problems
While it's true that the ideal speaker enclosure has no parallel sides - you generally are not going to see standing waves in car audio in a subwoofer enclosure.

Originally posted by JL Audio
Enclosure Shape
While it is always a pretty good idea to stay away from perfect cubes, they don't necessarily have to be avoided like The Plague. Due to the very small dimensions of most mobile subwoofer enclosures, there is little chance of generating standing waves in the enclosure (standing waves cause nasty response fluctuations). For a standing wave to exist, the distance between parallel boundaries must be 1/2 the wavelength of the frequency at which the standing wave exists. Considering that sub-bass waves vary from 56.4 feet (20 Hz) to 11.28 feet (100 Hz), the generation of a standing wave is going to be impossible....after all, the enclosures we're speaking of have to fit in the average sedan or hatchback!
Besides that point, your car is going to rattle no matter what enclosure shape you have....either a sphere or a cube...doesn't matter.
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 02:35 PM
  #25  
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wow! this thread is helpful!!!

i'm starting to think out my sub box and this helped alot!!

just to see if i am on the right track...

my sub suggests a box with .75 cubic

i want to make a box with these dimensions:

12" x 12" x 14", however, i plan to angle the sub.
this equals = 1.16

so the part i am angling at is a pyramid shape so i calculated the cubic volume of a square (twice the size of the pyramid i'm doing)
12" x 2" x 12" = .16 / 2 = .08

so my total equals around 1.08
then i minus my speaker/sub volume = .284
volume = .796

This leaves me with just a little more space, is that ok?

This is a quick diagram of my box, very very basic....

thanks!
peace
seamonkey420
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 02:40 PM
  #26  
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that only works if those are the interior dimensions of the box...
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 04:04 PM
  #27  
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thats what i thought..

so i guess i'll need to take into account the
3/4" thickness of the board (mdf of course!)..

thanks!!
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 05:00 PM
  #28  
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yeah you should...also, if you wanted to drop the volume of the box a little you could just take a little off the front of the box...get what i'm sayin?...later
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 06:04 PM
  #29  
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Do yourself a favor use AT least 3/4" mdf and before you close it all up.. get some mdf sealer.. its a spray and it will cover the mdf with a glue type substance which will also allow for less air leakage. If you have access to a air nailer use that to nail your box togeter or if you don't use screws and glue it as well as nail/screw it. The less air coming out of a box the better. And yes those dimensions you came up with our the inside size., so like you said take in accoun the 3/4" of that as well.
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 02:55 PM
  #30  
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where can you get that MDF sealer?
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