what do you guy's suggest making a box out of?
be careful with your box volume...some subs are extremely picky about box size. boston pro 12" (what i have) require EXACTLY 1 cubic foot. more or less and you'll damage the sub. this is one of the reasons tweeter is phasing out sales of those subs...too many replacements because of bad box design. i love them tho...one of the best i've heard in the price range.
fiberglass is difficult to find volume from...if you have the room, try to build a solid, regular shaped (squared off) 3/4" MDF box and use fiberglass to surround the box location for whatever design you are trying to do. fiberglass can be a bitch to leakproof, especially in high SPL installs.
fiberglass is difficult to find volume from...if you have the room, try to build a solid, regular shaped (squared off) 3/4" MDF box and use fiberglass to surround the box location for whatever design you are trying to do. fiberglass can be a bitch to leakproof, especially in high SPL installs.
Originally posted by SoCalAccord
Why would you avoid cubes?? My Boston spec sheet sugested a half of a cube as a box. Goodluck!
Why would you avoid cubes?? My Boston spec sheet sugested a half of a cube as a box. Goodluck!
Originally posted by jfiedler
be careful with your box volume...some subs are extremely picky about box size. boston pro 12" (what i have) require EXACTLY 1 cubic foot. more or less and you'll damage the sub. this is one of the reasons tweeter is phasing out sales of those subs...too many replacements because of bad box design. i love them tho...one of the best i've heard in the price range.
be careful with your box volume...some subs are extremely picky about box size. boston pro 12" (what i have) require EXACTLY 1 cubic foot. more or less and you'll damage the sub. this is one of the reasons tweeter is phasing out sales of those subs...too many replacements because of bad box design. i love them tho...one of the best i've heard in the price range.
berglass is difficult to find volume from...if you have the room, try to build a solid, regular shaped (squared off) 3/4" MDF box and use fiberglass to surround the box location for whatever design you are trying to do. fiberglass can be a bitch to leakproof, especially in high SPL installs.
Originally posted by Technodigifreak
cubes, have real problems with resonation and the creation of standing waves, both are BAD if you have a loose trunk with rattleing problems
cubes, have real problems with resonation and the creation of standing waves, both are BAD if you have a loose trunk with rattleing problems
Originally posted by JL Audio
Enclosure Shape
While it is always a pretty good idea to stay away from perfect cubes, they don't necessarily have to be avoided like The Plague. Due to the very small dimensions of most mobile subwoofer enclosures, there is little chance of generating standing waves in the enclosure (standing waves cause nasty response fluctuations). For a standing wave to exist, the distance between parallel boundaries must be 1/2 the wavelength of the frequency at which the standing wave exists. Considering that sub-bass waves vary from 56.4 feet (20 Hz) to 11.28 feet (100 Hz), the generation of a standing wave is going to be impossible....after all, the enclosures we're speaking of have to fit in the average sedan or hatchback!
Enclosure Shape
While it is always a pretty good idea to stay away from perfect cubes, they don't necessarily have to be avoided like The Plague. Due to the very small dimensions of most mobile subwoofer enclosures, there is little chance of generating standing waves in the enclosure (standing waves cause nasty response fluctuations). For a standing wave to exist, the distance between parallel boundaries must be 1/2 the wavelength of the frequency at which the standing wave exists. Considering that sub-bass waves vary from 56.4 feet (20 Hz) to 11.28 feet (100 Hz), the generation of a standing wave is going to be impossible....after all, the enclosures we're speaking of have to fit in the average sedan or hatchback!
wow! this thread is helpful!!!
i'm starting to think out my sub box and this helped alot!!
just to see if i am on the right track...
my sub suggests a box with .75 cubic
i want to make a box with these dimensions:
12" x 12" x 14", however, i plan to angle the sub.
this equals = 1.16
so the part i am angling at is a pyramid shape so i calculated the cubic volume of a square (twice the size of the pyramid i'm doing)
12" x 2" x 12" = .16 / 2 = .08
so my total equals around 1.08
then i minus my speaker/sub volume = .284
volume = .796
This leaves me with just a little more space, is that ok?
This is a quick diagram of my box, very very basic....
thanks!
peace
seamonkey420
i'm starting to think out my sub box and this helped alot!!
just to see if i am on the right track...
my sub suggests a box with .75 cubic
i want to make a box with these dimensions:
12" x 12" x 14", however, i plan to angle the sub.
this equals = 1.16
so the part i am angling at is a pyramid shape so i calculated the cubic volume of a square (twice the size of the pyramid i'm doing)
12" x 2" x 12" = .16 / 2 = .08
so my total equals around 1.08
then i minus my speaker/sub volume = .284
volume = .796
This leaves me with just a little more space, is that ok?
This is a quick diagram of my box, very very basic....
thanks!
peace
seamonkey420
Do yourself a favor use AT least 3/4" mdf and before you close it all up.. get some mdf sealer.. its a spray and it will cover the mdf with a glue type substance which will also allow for less air leakage. If you have access to a air nailer use that to nail your box togeter or if you don't use screws and glue it as well as nail/screw it. The less air coming out of a box the better. And yes those dimensions you came up with our the inside size., so like you said take in accoun the 3/4" of that as well.


