Wire Color Information: FYI
12-31-2002, 01:39 PM
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Wire Color Information: FYI
Just so you know, if anyone needs it... you can email me if you have any specific wirring information you need for any car... for installing alarms, starters, stereos... anything like that. I'll be glad to help fellow HAN people out!
All I need is the car, make, model, sub-model and year... plus what you're installing (or trying to).
ie: 1996 Honda Accord LX Coupe
Remote Starter
All I need is the car, make, model, sub-model and year... plus what you're installing (or trying to).
ie: 1996 Honda Accord LX Coupe
Remote Starter
01-02-2003, 08:30 PM
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-Tach Signal, if needed, is a blue wire either at the Distributor, or there is a test lead that is easier to use, which is again a blue wire, only with a black plug on the end... its located on the back side of the engine, on the driver side of the car.
-Constant 12 Volts, White wire in the ignition switch harness
-Ignition, black/yellow wire in the ignition switch harness
-Starter, black/white in the ignition switch harness
-Ignition 2, yellow wire in the ignition switch harness
-Accessory, white/black in the ignition switch harness
-Brake Light, green/white at the stop light switch... its pretty far up inside the dash... it will show a positive signal when the brake is pressed
-Parking Lights, red/green in the headlight switch harness, comming from the steering collum, this wire need a positive trigger.
-Power lock, black/white
-Power unlock, black/red Both can be found in either kick panel... usually a grey 2-pin female connector taped to a larger harness.
-Horn, blue/green in the steering collum harness, needs a negative trigger, I highly recomend a relay for this trigger.
Hope this helps... if theres any I left out, or if you're adding additional accessories or options, let me know.
-Constant 12 Volts, White wire in the ignition switch harness
-Ignition, black/yellow wire in the ignition switch harness
-Starter, black/white in the ignition switch harness
-Ignition 2, yellow wire in the ignition switch harness
-Accessory, white/black in the ignition switch harness
-Brake Light, green/white at the stop light switch... its pretty far up inside the dash... it will show a positive signal when the brake is pressed
-Parking Lights, red/green in the headlight switch harness, comming from the steering collum, this wire need a positive trigger.
-Power lock, black/white
-Power unlock, black/red Both can be found in either kick panel... usually a grey 2-pin female connector taped to a larger harness.
-Horn, blue/green in the steering collum harness, needs a negative trigger, I highly recomend a relay for this trigger.
Hope this helps... if theres any I left out, or if you're adding additional accessories or options, let me know.
01-03-2003, 06:12 PM
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everything is the same as the 99... listed above, EXCEPT:
-parking lights, red/black... in a green connector at the fuse box, also needs a positive trigger.
-the lock/unlock wires are the same color, just located in the driver side kick panel, and is the larger of the 2 grey connectors.
-horn, same color wire, but located at the relay to the left of the fuse box.
You'll have to bypass the clutch switch... there are 2 switches on the clutch pedal, one disengages the cruise if you tap the pedal... the other one allows the car to start when the pedal is fully depressed... this is the switch you want to bypass, i'd use a switch so when you want, the switch works like its suposed to...
I dont hold any responsibility if your car walks away though... please always remember to set the e-brake and leave the car in neutral... if the clutch switch is bypassed, and the car left in gear, when you hit the start button the car will move... trust me, the starter is powerful enough.
-parking lights, red/black... in a green connector at the fuse box, also needs a positive trigger.
-the lock/unlock wires are the same color, just located in the driver side kick panel, and is the larger of the 2 grey connectors.
-horn, same color wire, but located at the relay to the left of the fuse box.
You'll have to bypass the clutch switch... there are 2 switches on the clutch pedal, one disengages the cruise if you tap the pedal... the other one allows the car to start when the pedal is fully depressed... this is the switch you want to bypass, i'd use a switch so when you want, the switch works like its suposed to...
I dont hold any responsibility if your car walks away though... please always remember to set the e-brake and leave the car in neutral... if the clutch switch is bypassed, and the car left in gear, when you hit the start button the car will move... trust me, the starter is powerful enough.
01-03-2003, 07:06 PM
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My remote starter bypasses the clutch, do you know what wire I should get into and where if there is a spot that isn't hidden? Also, Parking brake wire under the dash, do you know the color? I don't want to rip my console apart if I don't have to.
It's actually pretty neat, to set it to remote start, you have to basically activate the remote starter before you shut the car off, pull the parking brake, and shut the door. Then shut the car off with the remote...and if any doors are opened, clutch is depressed, etc. the car will not remote start. (at least that's how I understand it
)
Thanks,
Rob.
It's actually pretty neat, to set it to remote start, you have to basically activate the remote starter before you shut the car off, pull the parking brake, and shut the door. Then shut the car off with the remote...and if any doors are opened, clutch is depressed, etc. the car will not remote start. (at least that's how I understand it
)Thanks,
Rob.
01-08-2003, 12:57 PM
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01-10-2003, 08:26 PM
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robl- Ive heard of those units before... but never installed one, because of liability reasons... I dont need any law-suits against me from a customers car driving itself into the street and causing an accident, just because they wanted their car to warm up.
There is only one way to bypass the clutch switch... and the switch is on the pedal assembly, inside the dash... there should only be 2 wires comming from it. Locate the switch, and while watching it, depress the clutch pedal to the floor... you should see a long plunger from the switch that becomes fully extended when the clutch is to the floor... that is the switch you need to bypass.
As far as the parking brakes goes, I just locate the wire in the console... its not that hard to take the console off (at least for me its not), it just takes any guess-work out of it. If you want, get the console apart... and trace the wire, see where it goes... and if it goes to the driver side of the dash (which it should), tap it under there so you dont have to run a long wire.
Phreaxer- You can use the above mentioned diagram I listed for Will... there should be all the wires you need, listed there. As with anyone, if you are adding more accessories/options or I forgot something... let me know.
For a head-unit, I recomend using a harness adapter with the EIA standard wire coloring... the wirring of the adapter will match the wirring for an aftermarket deck, so it will basically be a matter of matching colors. I recomend this method, because when you sell the car, all you have to do is unplug your unit, and plug the stock unit back in... plus it makes for a neater job. If you need one of these adapters, they can be found anywhere... or you can paypal me $12 and I will ship you one. If you really want the wire colors for a deck in your car, I will post them for you.
There is only one way to bypass the clutch switch... and the switch is on the pedal assembly, inside the dash... there should only be 2 wires comming from it. Locate the switch, and while watching it, depress the clutch pedal to the floor... you should see a long plunger from the switch that becomes fully extended when the clutch is to the floor... that is the switch you need to bypass.
As far as the parking brakes goes, I just locate the wire in the console... its not that hard to take the console off (at least for me its not), it just takes any guess-work out of it. If you want, get the console apart... and trace the wire, see where it goes... and if it goes to the driver side of the dash (which it should), tap it under there so you dont have to run a long wire.
Phreaxer- You can use the above mentioned diagram I listed for Will... there should be all the wires you need, listed there. As with anyone, if you are adding more accessories/options or I forgot something... let me know.
For a head-unit, I recomend using a harness adapter with the EIA standard wire coloring... the wirring of the adapter will match the wirring for an aftermarket deck, so it will basically be a matter of matching colors. I recomend this method, because when you sell the car, all you have to do is unplug your unit, and plug the stock unit back in... plus it makes for a neater job. If you need one of these adapters, they can be found anywhere... or you can paypal me $12 and I will ship you one. If you really want the wire colors for a deck in your car, I will post them for you.
05-30-2003, 08:15 AM
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Wondering if you can help, I need to know where the power lock wires originates? I think two are to the fuse box and one for the door module(whateever is called). I planning to relocate my power lock switches to the center console. Maybe you can save me time so I don't have to back tracking through an ocean of wires.
Sorry forgot to mention 95 Integra LS 2d Coupe
Thanks,
Mike
Sorry forgot to mention 95 Integra LS 2d Coupe
Thanks,
Mike
05-31-2003, 06:24 AM
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Power Lock- Black with White stripe
Power Unlock- Black with Red stripe
You'll find them in the drivers kick panel area... behind the cruise control module... the wires will be in the larger of the 2 grey molex connectors.
Power Unlock- Black with Red stripe
You'll find them in the drivers kick panel area... behind the cruise control module... the wires will be in the larger of the 2 grey molex connectors.