Horn loaded compression drivers
Thanks for the advice. I don't have the money to go with all active crossovers or the cd1pros for that matter. My delema is that i want better staging but want to keep the dead pedal. I wasn't sure on the difference between the mini and full sized horn so thanks. After all is said and done will it just more headaches to go with the lower mini horns than a matched set like these
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/FOC165V
If it would fit probably in the stock location or if i ahd to go with the 5 1/4. i was thinking to move the tweeter down, maybe almost mounted like a coaxil set down lower. The tweeters are aimed at each other and not out like they should be. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/FOC165V
If it would fit probably in the stock location or if i ahd to go with the 5 1/4. i was thinking to move the tweeter down, maybe almost mounted like a coaxil set down lower. The tweeters are aimed at each other and not out like they should be. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
what is your current setup, and what is your budget. List everything that you own, and what kind of money you have to work with, and maybe you can find a way to make things work. If you really wanted to try horns, there are a few people to contact to get them at.....never pay retail!!!
ppi 2240 sub amp, ppi 10 sub, phoenix gold xs2200 for the mids and highs, polk ex series 2 components, ppi eqp in dash eq, clarion pro audio cd player not sure model # lower line though and 6 disk changer. Looking around $300 i know its not much but its all I want to sepend at this point.,
300 will be a little shy of what you need to really do horns correctly IMO. I really don't see how the Focals will get you what you want either. Just putting them into factory locations won't really give you any significany (if any) improvement on your current setup in the areas of staging and imaging.'
You may be able to build a set of kickpanels that integrated a dead pedal. Otherwise, your best bet will probably be to save your money, wait until you can get a second amp and then try the horns. Either that, or try to find some one selling the CD1Ve Horn comp set with the midbasses and crossovers.
You may be able to build a set of kickpanels that integrated a dead pedal. Otherwise, your best bet will probably be to save your money, wait until you can get a second amp and then try the horns. Either that, or try to find some one selling the CD1Ve Horn comp set with the midbasses and crossovers.
I was looking around, and found this:
http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showt...threadid=60561
It's used, but in your price range. Pair it up with a good set of mids and you are ready to rock....
http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showt...threadid=60561
It's used, but in your price range. Pair it up with a good set of mids and you are ready to rock....
thanks I don't have a mambership but you think you could just give me a quick run down. If i was gonna do this what kind of mids would you suggest? I was thinking of getting a 6 1/2 to go inthe doors since the 5 1/4 have pretty weak midbass as of right now.
I am rebuilding and simplifying my system, so I have the following items for sale. Prices do not include shipping.
PPI amps - these are regular AM series, not Art Series
2150AM 2x150 or 1x600 like new, have original box $125
2050AM 2x50 or 1x200 small ding/scratch in heatsink, have original box $75
4100AM 4x25 or 2x100 small ding/scratch in heatsink $75
Image Dynamics CD1E horns - The mounting flanges were removed for custom install so there are two small holes in each horn body where they were mounted and some scratches on the outside of the bodies. Have unused metal mesh for grilles for these. $100 for the pair
CS1.X crossovers for these horns and a 4-ohm midbass. Built-in attenuation and EQ. Like new. $65
JL Audio 6W1 6.5" midbass, no grilles $60 for the pair
(3) JL 10W6 subwoofers. Scratches on magnet stickers. Have original boxes. $180 for the three.
a/d/s A4im 4" coaxials - no grilles. Have stock crossovers for these and crossovers from a 336is set with tweeter level and midrange eq. $75 for the pair w/both crossovers
JBL GT4203 4" component set. About 9 years old, surface mount tweeters, no grilles for mids, original box $30 for the pair
Coustic XM3 crossover scratches along top edge $30
All of these are in good working order, but I am downsizing my system (and cleaning out my closet) so I would like someone else to get some use from them. If anyone is interested in the whole package I will sell it all for $600 plus shipping to keep from dividing it up. If you have any questions please email me at dewi1219@aol.com. Thanks.
Scott S.
PPI amps - these are regular AM series, not Art Series
2150AM 2x150 or 1x600 like new, have original box $125
2050AM 2x50 or 1x200 small ding/scratch in heatsink, have original box $75
4100AM 4x25 or 2x100 small ding/scratch in heatsink $75
Image Dynamics CD1E horns - The mounting flanges were removed for custom install so there are two small holes in each horn body where they were mounted and some scratches on the outside of the bodies. Have unused metal mesh for grilles for these. $100 for the pair
CS1.X crossovers for these horns and a 4-ohm midbass. Built-in attenuation and EQ. Like new. $65
JL Audio 6W1 6.5" midbass, no grilles $60 for the pair
(3) JL 10W6 subwoofers. Scratches on magnet stickers. Have original boxes. $180 for the three.
a/d/s A4im 4" coaxials - no grilles. Have stock crossovers for these and crossovers from a 336is set with tweeter level and midrange eq. $75 for the pair w/both crossovers
JBL GT4203 4" component set. About 9 years old, surface mount tweeters, no grilles for mids, original box $30 for the pair
Coustic XM3 crossover scratches along top edge $30
All of these are in good working order, but I am downsizing my system (and cleaning out my closet) so I would like someone else to get some use from them. If anyone is interested in the whole package I will sell it all for $600 plus shipping to keep from dividing it up. If you have any questions please email me at dewi1219@aol.com. Thanks.
Scott S.
I just try to keep my eyes out for gear when I know people are looking for certain things....
Thank you very much. Not too sure about dealing with people i don't know but ill keep that im mind. My other option that seems a lot simpler is to mount coaxils or a component set coaxily in the bottom of the doors in the factory location to equalize the path length without kicks. imaging may not be the best but if the tweeters are aimed up and towards the listiner it might be a bit better. what do you think?
Originally posted by rcurley55
I really don't see how the Focals will get you what you want either. Just putting them into factory locations won't really give you any significany (if any) improvement on your current setup in the areas of staging and imaging.
I really don't see how the Focals will get you what you want either. Just putting them into factory locations won't really give you any significany (if any) improvement on your current setup in the areas of staging and imaging.
And yes 97teg, I have dealt with the low end ID horns. They sound great for the money but I would recommend you get into a component set. Tweeters are 300 times easier to install than horns. Like rcurley stated, you probably would want to spend more money to make horns sound/work properly. The reason I say you want to aim them up just a tad is to raise your sound stage but that depends a LOT on your car. Now when I say aim them up, I'm talking like a 5 degree difference, nothing drastic. But every car I've heard horns in, they had INCREDIBLE dynamic range and sound stage. I've never heard them sound narrow. Just be sure to mount the horns on the outside with the horn body curved in and it sounds great. Now yes, they're hard to mount so I agree with looking into mini bodies. They still give good (not as wide but still very good) sound stage and SQ and are a lot easier to mount in honda's without getting in the way. Now if you DO go with full size bodies, I don't recommend using cardboard. 1. The only time cardboard will be in my car is when I bring product home in their boxes (hehe). 2. under moisture, it will be VERY weak and could rip and drop your speaker 3. resinates to much and will not be a sturdy support 4. it's cardboard for god's sake hehehe Just use a thin piece of MDF (1/8" or 1/4") to mount them under your dash. You could possibly even make it work with a few metal strips then get grill cloth to cover the horn body so it isn't so obvious...I love horns, but I'll stick with my Focal Tweeters....

Wait a tick... I made a post without being a smart ass or jack ass to someone...WOW! :fawk: :yay: :wiggle: :booty: hehehehehehhehe
Originally posted by Toxis
I don't recommend using cardboard. 1. The only time cardboard will be in my car is when I bring product home in their boxes (hehe). 2. under moisture, it will be VERY weak and could rip and drop your speaker 3. resinates to much and will not be a sturdy support 4. it's cardboard for god's sake hehehe Just use a thin piece of MDF (1/8" or 1/4") to mount them under your dash. You could possibly even make it work with a few metal strips then get grill cloth to cover the horn body so it isn't so obvious...I love horns, but I'll stick with my Focal Tweeters....
Wait a tick... I made a post without being a smart ass or jack ass to someone...WOW! :fawk: :yay: :wiggle: :booty: hehehehehehhehe
I don't recommend using cardboard. 1. The only time cardboard will be in my car is when I bring product home in their boxes (hehe). 2. under moisture, it will be VERY weak and could rip and drop your speaker 3. resinates to much and will not be a sturdy support 4. it's cardboard for god's sake hehehe Just use a thin piece of MDF (1/8" or 1/4") to mount them under your dash. You could possibly even make it work with a few metal strips then get grill cloth to cover the horn body so it isn't so obvious...I love horns, but I'll stick with my Focal Tweeters....

Wait a tick... I made a post without being a smart ass or jack ass to someone...WOW! :fawk: :yay: :wiggle: :booty: hehehehehehhehe
Typically, people use heavy plumber's tape (radio backstrapping) to mount horns. At least the CD1's. It's recommended that for CD2's you think about welding in some mounting brackets (they weigh about 20lbs each) My suggestion of cardboard was for the under dash pad only. You could make them out of carbon fiber if you wanted to. Cardboard is just cheap and easy.
The under dash pad can be basically anything semi-rigid that spans the distance from the horn body to the leading edge of the dash...hence the "attach" in quotes. Just cover it in carpet and you are good to go.
If you skip this step, you will get sound leaking up into your dash, creating multiple point sources when it leaks out....that's not pretty.
Hope thats a bit more clear now.


