Sup, I did the search found nothing that showed step by step amp installation. Basically where to find the firewall to get the power wire through, how and which panels to take off to hide the power wire and the speaker wire & RCA cables.

This is what I have and want to install.

I'm getting a Sony ES CDX-C90 headunit.
I have an eclipse 3640 4 channel amp 40x4 RMS
JL Audio 300/1 amp for JL sub 250rms sub.
Clarion EQ, 7 volt preout(the one from the thread about seth )

Things I would need for install...(add more if I missed anything)

Distribution block (4 gauge in 2 8 gauge out.. sound ok?)
2 amp wiring kits.. dunno what size or what amp fuse I will need.
3 RCA patch cables

So my main issue is I need a website or if someone had created a tutorial with pics on how to install an amp from the beginning to the end. because I was raped before in install charges when my sub and 300/1 amp were installed.. $150. I think I have the knowhow to install this stuff.. headunit install is a no brainer.. amp install I've been a little hesitant on.

Any help guys?

[edit] oops didnt mention the car.. 2000 accord V6 2 door.

 

I'm too lazy to go through it right now (and I have to leave for class in a few minutes), but check there:

http://www.installdr.com/home.html

I'm not sure if they'll have what you're looking for, but good luck...

 

Nah that site doesn't tell you a whole lot. Here's a better site that'll give you what you exactly need for the accord.

http://www.morningz.com/mz/integra/audio.asp


The only thing I don't agree on is where he ran the power cable thru the firewall. If you don't know how to or just don't have the patience of going thru the firewall correctly, you can just drill a hole thru the firewall on the driver's side. That's wut most people do but since i do my own installs, i take good care of my car. Make sure you use silicone if you drill a hole so u keep it dry.

If you gots anymore questions, feel free to ask!

 

so far it makes sense... now for the 2 amps I'm about to install... I'm thinking of 8 gauge power and ground wire for them.

battery~~~4g wire~~[dist. block]~~(2)8 g wires~~|firewall|


should I keep the distribution block 10 inches (or whatever short length) from the battery diagramed above? ...OR can the distribution block go in the trunk to seperate the 4 gauge wire into (2) 8 gauge... and run a fuse 10 inches from the battery

The 2nd way I got from this picture from another install ...

 

the way you described it is kinda confusing. whats with the firewall at the end?
battery~~~4g wire~~[dist. block]~~(2)8 g wires~~|firewall|

it should be....battery----4g wire-fuse ---within 18 inches---firewall---d-block in trunk---8g to each amp.

 

Will what fuse rating should I get for the 4g wire?
And dont distribution blocks have fuses in them or are there ones without..?

lastly is it wise to d-block the ground and put a single 4g ground in the trunk? or seperate each ground for each amp..

 

I'm not familiar with this car, but here's what you have to do:

Let's start with the head unit:
Install the head as usual...see http://www.installdr.com for details on how to remove your dash, etc. Grab your harness and necessary dash kit.

Now let's talk signal chain.....
You will run one set of RCA's to the input on the Clarion, then 3 sets of RCA's from the Clarion to the amps. Run the signal wires down the center of the car. It keeps them short, and you shouldn't have a problem hiding them under the center console and under the carpet, then under the rear seat and into the trunk. Make sure you keep clear of any moving parts (shifter, ebrake, etc)

Now let's talk amp remotes....
You will be triggering 3 units off of your heads amp remote...personally, I think that's one too many. I would suggest you look into installing a relay you can do it one of two ways.

1. Use the amp remote to trigger the relay, then send the out on the relay to the 3 units

2. Use the amp remote for the EQ, then run it to trigger the relay, install the relay in the trunk.

I like option 2. It's very accessable that way...the wiring isn't cramped. It's a bit more wiring, but it's a cheap way of making sure that you save your headunit.
For more on relays, go here: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/

Run your amp remotes along with your power wires.

Speaking of power/ground:
You will need a total of 3 12V+ wires for this install:

1. 12V+ for the EQ
2. 12V+ for the Amps
3. 12V+ for the relay

Each of these leads should be fused within 18" of the battery. Each must pass though a rubber grommet when entering through the firewall. Check that above site on how to get fuse ratings for each line. There are a few calcuators on that site that iwll give you wire gauge and fuse ratings.

For the main power line, a 4ga line will be plenty for this system. Anything more is overkill. Start at the battery, go through the firewall, then under the door sills and into the trunk. Get a fused distribution block, then run 8 ga wires to each amp. Again, the shorter the better, but don't sacrifice ease of install to save a couple of inches of wire. Refer to the manuals for the amplifiers to find the maximum amperage draw of each amplifier. Then add these two numbers, and you will get a resonable ballpark for a main system fuse. The same is true for the fused distribution block.

The grounds for the amps can be done individually, or separately. The main points:

1. keep them short
2. make them the same size as the power wire
3. make sure the connection to the car is secure
4. make sure it's touching bare metal

Most wiring problems can be traced back to a bad ground. The same is true for the EQ and head....ground and ground well!!

Now let's talk speaker wire:
You have a few options here....let's get rid of the sub first...that one's simple...from the amp to the terminal cup on the box....

Now the cabin speakers...again, the rears should be easy, assuming they are in the rear parcel shelf....the front doors are another story. You have two options here:

1. rewire the car
2. use some existing factory wire.

I'm going to assume that you want #2...it's less work, and this is a fairly low power system. Run speaker wires back up the center of the car...next to the RCA's is fine....back to behind the head unit. Then connect these wires to the factory harness using the adaptor that you purchased for the headunit....don't cut the factory harness.

That should be everything....I think? Let me know if any clarification is necessary, or if you have any more questions....I think I got it all, but I may have missed a few things....sorry if I did.

 

well said robert.

the size of the fuse will depend on everything that is going to be drawing from that power wire. i am not familiar with those amps, but add up the onboard fuses of both, and that should be under the hood. probably a 40-60amp fuse?

i have a fuse under the hood, and a fuse on my d-block. it makes things easier when i have to rewire something or even for safty reasons.

 

Thanks Will

That the JL amp (because of the RIPS system) is a power hog!! I'm guessing a 100A fuse under hood (~30A for the Eclipse and 70A for the JL) That should be plenty of juice for that system.

 

my gawd!! thanks rob



and thanks will for the answer to my fuse question.

I'll begin this project saturday... let's see how it goes