I'm not familiar with this car, but here's what you have to do:

Let's start with the head unit:
Install the head as usual...see http://www.installdr.com for details on how to remove your dash, etc. Grab your harness and necessary dash kit.

Now let's talk signal chain.....
You will run one set of RCA's to the input on the Clarion, then 3 sets of RCA's from the Clarion to the amps. Run the signal wires down the center of the car. It keeps them short, and you shouldn't have a problem hiding them under the center console and under the carpet, then under the rear seat and into the trunk. Make sure you keep clear of any moving parts (shifter, ebrake, etc)

Now let's talk amp remotes....
You will be triggering 3 units off of your heads amp remote...personally, I think that's one too many. I would suggest you look into installing a relay you can do it one of two ways.

1. Use the amp remote to trigger the relay, then send the out on the relay to the 3 units

2. Use the amp remote for the EQ, then run it to trigger the relay, install the relay in the trunk.

I like option 2. It's very accessable that way...the wiring isn't cramped. It's a bit more wiring, but it's a cheap way of making sure that you save your headunit.
For more on relays, go here: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/

Run your amp remotes along with your power wires.

Speaking of power/ground:
You will need a total of 3 12V+ wires for this install:

1. 12V+ for the EQ
2. 12V+ for the Amps
3. 12V+ for the relay

Each of these leads should be fused within 18" of the battery. Each must pass though a rubber grommet when entering through the firewall. Check that above site on how to get fuse ratings for each line. There are a few calcuators on that site that iwll give you wire gauge and fuse ratings.

For the main power line, a 4ga line will be plenty for this system. Anything more is overkill. Start at the battery, go through the firewall, then under the door sills and into the trunk. Get a fused distribution block, then run 8 ga wires to each amp. Again, the shorter the better, but don't sacrifice ease of install to save a couple of inches of wire. Refer to the manuals for the amplifiers to find the maximum amperage draw of each amplifier. Then add these two numbers, and you will get a resonable ballpark for a main system fuse. The same is true for the fused distribution block.

The grounds for the amps can be done individually, or separately. The main points:

1. keep them short
2. make them the same size as the power wire
3. make sure the connection to the car is secure
4. make sure it's touching bare metal

Most wiring problems can be traced back to a bad ground. The same is true for the EQ and head....ground and ground well!!

Now let's talk speaker wire:
You have a few options here....let's get rid of the sub first...that one's simple...from the amp to the terminal cup on the box....

Now the cabin speakers...again, the rears should be easy, assuming they are in the rear parcel shelf....the front doors are another story. You have two options here:

1. rewire the car
2. use some existing factory wire.

I'm going to assume that you want #2...it's less work, and this is a fairly low power system. Run speaker wires back up the center of the car...next to the RCA's is fine....back to behind the head unit. Then connect these wires to the factory harness using the adaptor that you purchased for the headunit....don't cut the factory harness.

That should be everything....I think? Let me know if any clarification is necessary, or if you have any more questions....I think I got it all, but I may have missed a few things....sorry if I did.