sorry double post

 

I've always thought is was that but it's not always like that IMO. I've came over that problem twice in the past. Theoretically speaking, it sounds correct in most cases; there are always certain odd ones so I'm just pointing out my part.

 

Well, before I went for a DMM or multi-meter, I started off as basic as possible. If the LED's turning on, then a burnt fuse isn't the problem. It wouldn't even turn on at all, correct?

I discovered the power/ground/remote wires were all fine when I swapped the sub amp and Alpine's wires - - the sub amp worked, while the Alpine's LED lit up briefly, then dimmed immediately. Keeps doing the same thing, but no 'pop' or any sound at all.

I'm starting to think that the amp's fried...what else could be causing this problem if the wires are alright? It worked fine for two years, I haven't made any abrupt changes in the wiring or my car since.

 

Alright, now both amps don't work. This just keeps getting better.

 

take some speaker wire and connect them straight to a battery. connect the negative to negative, positive and remote to positive of the battery. if they turn on, then you know you have wiring problems.

 

This is a perfect way to cut out the bs and see if the amp is working. Op how did you test the power wire with out a meter?

 

Thank you. It's been tough to really work on this given that I'm at school and have little tools, but THIS is a test/solution I can actually try out tomorrow. I'll pick up some wire and let you know of the results.

To be clear, I'm running speaker wire to power the amps? Just want to make sure.

 

Yes. Dont worry about fusing; you wont be needing it. The smaller the wire, the better IMO. The bigger the wire size, the bigger the sparks tend to be; btw, dont let the sparks get to you. Make sure your connections are correct and connect the negative last. Let us know if you need any help.

 

Well, I got to the bottom of it. The problem for the 4-channel amp was that the fuseholder was burned out inside, making for an inconsistent connection there. Taking it out, bending the teeth and popping it back in seemed to do the trick for that amp. But once I did that, after turning the car & stereo off, my sub amp was staying powered on and I couldn't figure out why. Turns out that about two or three frayed strands of wire from the 4-channel's power wire were touching the remote lead terminal on the amp. This, in turn, was a relay that was sending ~8V power to the remote lead of the sub amp (since the remote wire was spliced into two), keeping it on and draining my battery. I wonder how long that'd been taking place. Thank you, voltmeter.

Thanks dleccord, wrxkiller and orbit for your help...everything seems to be straightened out now h: