The most popular question... Subs/Box ?
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From: Lll
Originally Posted by AceMc03
somebody said eD subs were out of stock till later this year... I was looking around on their website and it doesn't seem to be true. I can pick one... add it to my cart... and start to check out...
So, what to pick... the Orion H2 12.2 seems like a bit overkill for my needs..
eD 13Kv.2 dual 2 / 350W RMS / $125
Kicker CompVR CVR122 / 400W RMS / $105
IDQ12 D2 v.2 / 350W RMS / $180
Alpine Type-S SWS-1222D / 300W RMS / $150
So, what to pick... the Orion H2 12.2 seems like a bit overkill for my needs..
eD 13Kv.2 dual 2 / 350W RMS / $125
Kicker CompVR CVR122 / 400W RMS / $105
IDQ12 D2 v.2 / 350W RMS / $180
Alpine Type-S SWS-1222D / 300W RMS / $150
I would pick up the ID or eD. And just to be sure, give them a call to see if they are in stock.
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Originally Posted by b00gers
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=18428
I would pick up the ID or eD. And just to be sure, give them a call to see if they are in stock.
I would pick up the ID or eD. And just to be sure, give them a call to see if they are in stock.
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From: SF, CA
There is so much mis-information on this threat it HURTS
no no and no - 15's can sound just as good or "tight" as 10's - this is a total misunderstanding and myth in car audio.
The wavelength you play is determined by the source - not the driver. A 10 or a 15 playing the same audio signal will play the same frequence, hence the same wavelength!!!!
wrong again
WAAAYYY wrong again - distortion doesn't kill speakers - do some research and find out why!!!!
Power is determined by impedance and imput voltage (assuming a loosely regulated design...)
gain is set only to match the ouput voltage of the headunit - distortion doesn't blow subs - try again...
[quote2. The subs will try and draw power from the amp that it can't handle and you will burn out the amp and possibly damage the voice coils in the subs. [/quote]
again, you are wrong....
300W is plenty for one sub.....or even a pair - ask me how I know 
Originally Posted by RBailie81
Well, your best bet on the music you want to listen to is to go with a couple of 10"s. They will give you the tightest "thump" and is usually best for rock. If you go with bigger subs the wave length of the sound will be deeper, therefore softer but louder deep bass, as in a 15". You could go with 12" and be safe as well. 12"s give a good all around sound if you get a quality sub. With 10"s you can usually spend less and still get a good hit.
The wavelength you play is determined by the source - not the driver. A 10 or a 15 playing the same audio signal will play the same frequence, hence the same wavelength!!!!
Now your amp, not trying to insult or anything, but the amp you have is not going to be good to push subs. The Max rating on the amp is 300w. Orion is not a great brand when it comes to subs and amps.
Even though the amp says 300w max you really will only get around 200w before distortion hits the speakers. By the way, Distortion = Death to speakers.
Subs will try and draw out as much power the amp can give. If you are running two subs on a small amp, a couple of things will happen.
1. The gain on the amp will have to be set high to give the subs power enough to actually hit, consequently the subs will blow from the high distortion rate.
[quote2. The subs will try and draw power from the amp that it can't handle and you will burn out the amp and possibly damage the voice coils in the subs. [/quote]
again, you are wrong....
3. You leave the amps gain down, but now you can barley power the subs or even hear them, so it was a big waste of time. (I know you don't want alot of pounding, but trust me you won't be able to hear much at all.)
Last edited by rcurley55; Nov 2, 2005 at 02:17 PM.
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by RBailie81
By the way, I'm sure that if you bridge the amp in parallel you will burn out the amp quick. It will get too hot and burn out. It will be trying to push too much power. If you look at the specs on your amp it says that it's not bridgeable.
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by RBailie81
We are talking about an Orion Amp. Just cause it says 300w. Does not mean it will do it. There will be horrendus distortion. The specs on the 3002 says that it's not bridgeable. I gaurentee if he bridges that amp it will overheat and fry. This is not a great amp. Just cause other amps can do one thing doesn't mean another is going to do the same. There is a huge difference from an Orion amp from an Infinity.
read the specs - 300 x 1 @ 4 ohm - it's bridgable - why horrendus distortion?!?!
Orion has a way better pedigree then infiniti in amps......
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by RBailie81
Oops, your right, it does say external. I still don't think it would be wise though. plus his amp is rated at 75x2 in a 4 ohm load. If bridged it would stay in a 4 ohm load but at 150x1. He just has to be carefull on the impedance he can aply to the amp. I guess to get the most out of it, it would need to be in Mono.
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by skip259
thanks. finally somoene agrees with me on the amp specs. 
If you have other options, i'd go with a class D amp for the sub. I've seen Phoenix Gold 400.1 Class D amps for 150 on ebay. You'd be better off with that than a class a/b amp simply because class D are much more effecient, and also they allow 1,2,4 ohm settings and still put out the same power.
I have one, and people ask me where the hidden sub is.
If you have other options, i'd go with a class D amp for the sub. I've seen Phoenix Gold 400.1 Class D amps for 150 on ebay. You'd be better off with that than a class a/b amp simply because class D are much more effecient, and also they allow 1,2,4 ohm settings and still put out the same power.
I have one, and people ask me where the hidden sub is.
generally they are good from a $/watt standpoint!
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by AceMc03
I'm under the impression that, for example, a 10" DVC would "sound" as if it were 2x10" subs - but not quite as good. So I'm guessing that my best bet with my current budget would be to go with a single 300W RMS 10" DVC sub with a dual 2-ohm impedance... wired as option 2 in that there picture... stuck in a sealed box. Or should I step up to a 12" DVC? Too many decisions and choices..
pick a sub that is appropriate for your needs and you will be fine.
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by skip259
go with the 12". more cone area and it's not always the cone size that makes the sound sharp. throw in the slew rate and the dampening factor. my DJ amp has a d factor of 500. super tight bass.
the higher it is, the tighter it'll sound.
Sealed is better if you want tight bass, ported if you want more boomier. think of it this way, sealed = machine gun ported = bombs going bwoooom.
the higher it is, the tighter it'll sound.
Sealed is better if you want tight bass, ported if you want more boomier. think of it this way, sealed = machine gun ported = bombs going bwoooom.
Pick the proper sub, and you will be fine in ported or sealed - remember, match the sub to the box.
if you make any other assumptions, you are strictly shooting in the dark about the performance!!!!
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by b00gers
You have 300 watts to work with. I would stick with a single 12" IDQ or ID3 in a sealed box.
I'd say two IDv3's - you want the [edit]D4's or one IDQ12 d2 in a ported box....
Last edited by rcurley55; Nov 3, 2005 at 01:46 AM.
