EdyJun

Hi guys, I have a 97 accord lx non ABS. Recently I have noticed that I have to push the brake peddle farther to stop the same way as before. I think that is just because my brakes are wearing down. But on the free way a few days a go I had to stop because of an accident, the car in front of me stopped really quick and forced me to stop rapidly too. (I almost hit him.) I always keep my distance since I know I have no abs and that my breaks are not that great. But when I was pushing on the peddle I could feel it, I was pushing more and more and I was still not stopping. It was about to lock up but it didn’t. I want to know if I get slotted Brembo rotors and change my brake fluid and pads would that give me more braking power with out eating away at my pads or warping my rotors? I want to be able to stop even with 2 or 3 people in my car. When I have people in my car and I brake often after words when I get of the car I can smell the brakes and I don’t even brake that hard.

Any ideas or opinions are welcomed and appreciated.

vtecaccord01

brembo blanks, aem pads, stainless steel lines

sickhonda

Slotted Rotors are one time deal since you cannot have them resurfaced. Despite the claim, slotted rotors are not really as effective as blanks due to less braking surface. They are more for bling than anything else. :naughty: Although, I’ll give them credit for being very effective in dissipating heat when braking. :bigok:
If you want my opinion, keep your stock rotors, if still in good condition or get Brembo Blanks which are supposed to be better than stock. Try using performance break pads and performance brake fluid instead.

jschmid

I'd say start by flushing and replacing your brake fluid. If your pads need replacement, replace them with OEM pads or if you want more grip and can deal with noise and dust, then use Hawk HP plus pads.

If that isn't satisfactory to you, then upgrade to a big brake kit, but that significantly more money.

PmPiNAzNBoI

Start cheap. Do the flush first, then upgrade the pads, then rotors and lines if you need to. Don't spend money if you don't think you need to.

EdyJun

Thank you all, can someone tell me what kinds of pads to use Semi-metallic or Organic or is there something else better?

fastball

Stock.... use all stock Honda or Wagner pads on your factory rotors. Semi-metallics are fine. Just do normal brake maintainance - flush, refill, and bleed system, turn rotors if there isn't too much runout (or replace if need be with genuine Honda rotors since those lasted you six years), and replace the pads (Honda or Wagner are recomended with stock rotors). I guarantee you that if you just use standard parts, your brakes will be fantastic. The Brembo craze is overkill. Sure, you can go that route if you want. But the money you spend will not yield enough of a premium over stock parts to justify it. Those brakes are made for high speed workouts at 100 mph. In alot of cases, they actually wear out much faster than stock since they generate 2-3 times the friction a stock pad/rotor does. Why do you think the standard brakes on Porsche is Brembos, and they typically last less than 20,000 miles driven normally, 30,000 lightly, and 15,000 driven rough? Hehe, Ferrari brakes need replacing every 12,000. Moral of the story? The better the brakes, the shorter they last, and for every day driving, they are a waste.

NightRider79

I also have a 94lx sedan NON-ABS ...Damn.... I just bought me some new EBC Slotted and Drilled rotors w/ green stuff brake pads.
Does anyone have this set up?
So you guys are saying that these type of rotors cant be resurfaced? If so, WHY?

AcsRcool

the loss of pedal pressure might be attributed to a failing master brake cylinder. Have it looked at as soon as possible. I had the same problem with my 89 Legend and i had to use the ebrake to stop the last two blocks to the dealer. . .

fastball

Do you know what a lathe is? If not, I'll explain it the best I can without a picture. There is a hub that you screw the rotor on and a motor spins the rotor. Once the rotor is mounted tight, the runout is measured with a caliper gauge (like you used in physics or chemistry class). The runout is how much of the rotor is left, and there is a factory set minimum for the disc to work safely. Once you have determined the runout is within spec (runout number are listed in any Helms, Chiltons, or Honda factory service manual for the car). You then set the lathe to just below what you measured with your calipers. The book will list original thickness (mine was .910 inches, .830 minimum thickness). So, say you measured .860 inches with your caliper, you set the lathe to .850 inches. There are two diamond-cut needle cutters (one on each side of the rotor) that will start at the center of the disc and work out as the disc spins. This process "trues" the surface, removing rust, gouges, dirt, and any uneveness. Makes the surface smooth and reuseable again. The problem with trying to use slotted or drilled rotors is, if you think of the cutting in action, once those needles get to the slots or holes, they will do serious damage to the rotor, or worse, break the cutting needles or adjustment mechanism on the lathe. A good Moorse brake lathe costs about $2,000.00. Just can't do anything but smooth surfaced, solid rotors or drums on a lathe.