brake feel is inconsistent - new fluid?
Thread Starter
Jack of few trades
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
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From: Toronto
brake feel is inconsistent - new fluid?
I've changed the front pads on my 99 Accord sedan recently yet I feel that the brakes still don't quite cut it. When coming to a stop the pedal feels slightly loose and disconnected. And when coming to the final stages of the stop, the car seems to lunge a bit, as if one part of the rotor was catching better than the rest. I recently rented a car and noticed how quickly responsive the brake pedal was to the slightest press, and I would like to get that feeling in my pedal. Now I've read from two sources that brake fluid needs to be changed at an interval. One source on this forum, said every 72K (kms, I'm a Canuck). Another, the Wheels section of the Toronto Star, suggested every 2 years. My car is long overdue for this service it seems. Is it probable that changing the fluid on its own will solve my problems?
So I'll be changing my brake fluid, and I would like to do it myself. How much fluid will I need? I remember seeing a post on changing the pads, would that have sufficient info on bleeding my lines and getting new fluid in there? I don't want to screw this up and have air in my lines.
So I'll be changing my brake fluid, and I would like to do it myself. How much fluid will I need? I remember seeing a post on changing the pads, would that have sufficient info on bleeding my lines and getting new fluid in there? I don't want to screw this up and have air in my lines.
Rice Rocket
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL
The resaon you change your fuild is because brake fluid attracts moisture. And having moisture in your brake system causes many problems for instance the insides of your brake system can begin to rust, you could experiance more brake fade, and etc.
I normally completely flush my brake system whenever the fluid becomes dark in color.
It sounds like your problem is bleeding though. If your brake fluid is dark or black just flush it all out and properly bleed your system.
Get yourself a Turkey baster. Suck all of the fluid out of your resivor. Clean your resivor really good. Fill it to the top with new clean fluid. Then proceed to bleeding the brakes.
*DO NOT depress the brake pedal with the resivor empty or you will need to bleed the master cylinder!*
I bleed furthest tire first, then closest, then next furthest, and then next closest. So Right rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front. Repeat as needed to get all the old fluid out.
As you bleed everything keep a close eye on the master cylinder resivor so that it doesn't go low. If it sucks up air you'll need to bleed the Master Cylinder.
Get yourself a bottle of Snapple and small diameter vacum line that will fit the nipple of the bleeder screws. Pop a hole in the cap of the Snapple bottle and stick the vacum hose in it. Use that to bleed your system so you can keep you work area clean and see when the old fluid is completely out and the new fluid starts to come out.
Good Luck and post if you need any other help
I normally completely flush my brake system whenever the fluid becomes dark in color.
It sounds like your problem is bleeding though. If your brake fluid is dark or black just flush it all out and properly bleed your system.
Get yourself a Turkey baster. Suck all of the fluid out of your resivor. Clean your resivor really good. Fill it to the top with new clean fluid. Then proceed to bleeding the brakes.
*DO NOT depress the brake pedal with the resivor empty or you will need to bleed the master cylinder!*
I bleed furthest tire first, then closest, then next furthest, and then next closest. So Right rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front. Repeat as needed to get all the old fluid out.
As you bleed everything keep a close eye on the master cylinder resivor so that it doesn't go low. If it sucks up air you'll need to bleed the Master Cylinder.
Get yourself a bottle of Snapple and small diameter vacum line that will fit the nipple of the bleeder screws. Pop a hole in the cap of the Snapple bottle and stick the vacum hose in it. Use that to bleed your system so you can keep you work area clean and see when the old fluid is completely out and the new fluid starts to come out.
Good Luck and post if you need any other help
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 2
Couple more things...
My shop manual for '98-'99 Accords says the bleeding order is RF-LF-LR-RR which I suppose is based on the plumbing details of the ABS.
When you did the pads, did you get the rotors resurfaced? They might be glazed from the old pads & they need a new surface so they can wear in to match the new pads. Try to avoid hard braking till they are bedded in (100 miles?) or you'll glaze the new ones.
My shop manual for '98-'99 Accords says the bleeding order is RF-LF-LR-RR which I suppose is based on the plumbing details of the ABS.
When you did the pads, did you get the rotors resurfaced? They might be glazed from the old pads & they need a new surface so they can wear in to match the new pads. Try to avoid hard braking till they are bedded in (100 miles?) or you'll glaze the new ones.