I have a 1992 Accord and it is lowered 2 1/4" with just springs and a camber kit.. I HAVE AN ULTRA severe problem of the upper control arm banging the inside of the fender well... even while driving on even pavement the slight movements of the control arms makes a scrubbing sound. I already had them shaved down so they wont stick out as much but its still a big big big problem. How do I remedy this, and is this a problem on the 6th gen accords since they use the same suspension? (I looked at them) Someone said that using aftermarket struts help... BUt i dont get how this changes the angle of the control arm so that it sticks in more... Does any company make aftermarket shorter control arms?? Please help!

 

welcome my friend..accords and control arm clearance sucks. i have the same problem on my 5th gen. i used to have a 3+" drop and i raised it and the kits still hit. nowhere near as bad as before the alignment though. i think you have a couple choices. either raise the car some, or get another kit. i was told by someone that specialty products camber kits wont have any clearance problems, also sprint extremes, but i have experience with neither. what kind of c-kit do you have? if you find out anything usefull let me know, i have the same problem.

 

Mine too. Neuspeed Race and Ingalls Engineering Camber Kit. Doesn't do too much unless I hit a huge bump, though.

 

Aftermarket struts help because their compression rating is different (most likely stiffer). If you're still running on stock shocks, then well, they're likely blown (or will be soon). Stock shocks/struts are designed specifically for the amount of suspension travel your stock springs provide.

You could always go with stiffer springs (like Neuspeed Race). But then Koni yellows would be a must if you go that route.

Last but not least, if your camber kit is adjustable, you might want to live with a -1.5 degree camber instead of 0.0. Sure you'll still have more inner wear, but it's much better than no camber correction. I'm not just blowing smoke out of my arse either. I've been there.

- neuspeed race springs at 15,000
- resulted in a -2.6 camber front.
- springs chews up stock shocks in 30 days
- koni yellows installed at 30,000
- stock tires pushed to the limits at 76,000
- 215/40z17's installed
- 84,000 noticed MUCH faster inner wear
- got camber kit, left it at -1.5
- the 2 17's that didn't get a flat lasted me ~55,000 miles
- on second set of tires now and just licked 160,000

i really don't have any clearance issues with my control arm.

 

I dont have nearly as much of a problem......control arm on my car barely hits the inner fender....but i figure as soon as i get in my Koni Yellows, i will adjust it to be the stiffest therefore it doesnt give the control arm a chance to even bounce up that high....btw i have barely any camber prob since im dropped on H&R Sports

 

i'm dropped like 2.5 inches right now witout a camber kit. but i think i'ma raise it up with neuspeed sports...don wanna deal with that control arm stuff.

hey aznbadass92lx...no offense or anything...but u sure ur rims are 5zigen gt8's? i hope someone didn't rip u off trying to sell you tantrum lookalikes hoping you would think they are 5zigen gt8's. the 5zigens have 8 spokes, if u need a picture, i'll post one up.

 

Hi,
I have a 93 Accord and lowered it 2.25" and had the same problem with the control arm hitting the inner fender well. I also had an SPC ball joint camber kit.

As you may have noticed, the fender well is made of a very strong metal. What you need is a propane torch and a hammer.

You will have to remove the front wheels and jack the car up very high off the ground. (I recommend jack stands also).

You then have to remove the lower section of the ball joint so that you will have room to swing the hammer. Also, remove the control arm by romoving the two bolts that are close to the the shock tower under the hood.

You will have to visually inspect to see where the arm is hitting the fender and heat that area. Be careful because the undercoat may catch on fire but only temporarily. After about 20 seconds or so of heating, hit the area with the hammer.

Several solid hits should pop out that area really nice. Be sure to occasionally check to see if the control arm clears the area you are hitting because you do not want to clear out too much of the fender. And that's it.

Now you dont have to worry about camber issues because you can straighten up the wheels to be more positvely cambered.


I've done this to several of my friends' 90 -93 accord and it is the best solution that will make the control arm clear the fender besides actually cutting that area out.

Tell me what you all think?

Also , the rear fenders can be "rolled" with a wooden bat so that the wheel camber can be fixed in the rear as well without rubbing.

 

that's what happens when you slam your car down on the ground...why not raise it up a tad.

 

They should make a decal for lowered Accords:

"No Fat Chicks, Control Arm Will Scrape"

:naughty:

In my truck, a tranny crossmember and the gas tank scrape on the ground. This past winter a gas tank scrap got ripped off as I was hauling some beer and hit a massive pothole... it was A LOT of beer! :beer:

I'd rather deal with control arms and fenders than gas tanks and tranny crossmembers.

 

You guys all have a major problem and that is you drop your car way too low and it has become impractical to drive your car on the streets normally. A drop of that proportion is for show only, not daily driving. You should reconsider the setup. Because your car will become a scrape mobile over little bumps and railroad tracks.