the FMAX kits sell for about $3500. hookup prices can get it for around $2800 if you look hard enough. i bought mine used. it had about 300 miles on it. i got it for $2300. the kit comes with a bov and wastegate. it comes with the Deltagate and HKS racing. the Deltagate is notorious for having boost creep. boost creep is when the wastegate is set to 8lbs and once in a while it will go up to 12-13lbs. obviously thats very bad. and i have just always loved the sound of the type-s bov so i swapped them. the extra injectors arent always on. they are closed until it reads 2lbs of boost. then they open up and inject fuel. so its just normal gas comsumption unless you go over 2lbs of boost. the displacement stays the same. the only way that changes is when you mess with the internals and block. i dont really like the way turbokits.com sells kits. its not really for the novice to buy from them. they offer kits by saying "70hp increase" and "100hp increase" mostly the only difference is how they upgrade the fuel system. they dont tell you that its with more boost. some people say "oh i'm gonna get the 200hp kit" but they dont realize that thats on 20lbs of boost which will also require you to build the block. they fail to mention that

a link to the FMAX web site is www.f-max.com

not a problem with the questions you ask. keep asking anything you want. thats why i'm here

 

did you have a shop do the installation of the turbo kit or did you do it yourself? At fmax website, there is a step by step instruction with pictures, but damn once u get beyond the "taking off stock downpipe and intake components" part, it gets hella confusing....Thanks.

 

The only supercharger that you could put under your hood would be one strapped to an H22A4.

There's turbochargers out there though. The F23, in my opinion, works the best with (expensive) NA tuning.

 

Hey 98AccordEX, I was reading the fmax site the other day and it mentioned that in order to avoid detonation their kits come with either a MSD ignition retard or a head gasket to lower compression. Did you do either of these?

oh, and what VAFC "cheap ass boost controller" did you get? I've been lookin around for a VAFC+boost controller, but either I haven't found one, or nobody makes a cool combo.

anyway, thanks man.

 

What type of gas mileage do you get on your accord and you really recommend changing your oil every 2000 miles??

 

i dont think stock motor accord owners need to worry about detonation because our compression is really low. I think 10.0:1 for the 6th gen i4s.

 

i think its 9.8 if I'm not mistaken... 9.8 is still high. Recommended comp for turbo setups i around 8.5-9.0.

L8tes

 

i get about 300-320 miles a tank. which is nothing great. its pretty much all city driving

gibson - the VAFC and boost controller are separate things. the manual boost controllers are all pretty much the same thing. it works by just a screw adjusting the pressure on a spring with a little ball on the end. and no i didnt use the head gasket or boost retard. i'm gonna use a better head gasket somewhere down the road. and i'm getting the MSD 6BTM which has the boost retard with it along with the ignition. the boost retard isnt an ignition. its just the boost retard

vtecaccord - for a turboed car you need to change it every 2000 miles. not on an NA car. the oil gets very dirty very quickly

AcuraFanatic - are you serious about NA being good for the F23? it has low compression and long gears. those are the 2 worst things for NA and the 2 best things for turbo. if you wanted to throw a lot of money at it you could swap the H22 tranny to it and use high compression pistons but it would be a waste having really short gears with a 6300 redline. with long gears with a turbo it stays in boost a lot longer than with shorter gears like the H22

Dozorca - the F23 actually has 9.3:1 CR. i believe the F22's had 8.8:1 CR

 

you always have a ton of great info thanks man. i will be joining you in about a month with a boosted 6th gen sedan, mines white to, ill post pics as soon as it get put on.