Two problems, 90 accordLX
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Socal
Two problems, 90 accordLX
Ok, so today I was driving back home, ~30 minute drive, and out of nowhere The Battery light came on. I kept driving, and about 10 seconds later it shut off. and a few mins later, same thing happend. Anyway I get home, check the battery cables, they were good and tight But the Light stayed on now, I unplug the alternator plug, and put it back in. light was still on, and i noticed it goes off, once the car drops to about ~7-800 RPM
and. my second problem is the driverside seatbelt *automatic* got stuck halfway, and wouldnt go back or forward. so I forced it to the closed position so i can drive home and it will not move now, But i do get the Beep beep beep beep .......
please help
and. my second problem is the driverside seatbelt *automatic* got stuck halfway, and wouldnt go back or forward. so I forced it to the closed position so i can drive home and it will not move now, But i do get the Beep beep beep beep .......
please help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Socal
so, the battery light seems to be the alternator. part store said it was good, but I pull one cable end off of the battery and the car dies, It doesnt hold a charge.
but for the seatbelt.. anyone know?
but for the seatbelt.. anyone know?
SDSU Basketball
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 9,483
Likes: 0
From: Diego
If you tried a new battery and it still drained the new battery
get a multi meter and try to trouble shoot where the drain is coming from.
1.)Pull the positive cable off of the battery, w/ the key off. (Be careful not to ground the wrench!)
2.)Put a multi-meter in-line with the battery cable and the post you just removed it from. Set it to current (Amps).
3.)If it shows any reading, something is draining it (i.e.- the battery is probably good). Make sure all the doors, etc. are closed, so nothing could be causing a drain, such as the dome light.
4.)If the voltage meter does show a drain, then pull the fuses one by one, and see if any one of them makes a difference. If you pull one, and the meter goes to zero, the offending item is on that circuit. Get out the shop manual and look at the wiring diagrams to see what is on that circuit.
5.)If you pull one, and it drops significantly but not all the way to zero, then you may have more than one bad part and will need to repeat the following steps more than once, for multiple circuits.
6.)Check the electrical parts/equipment on the circuit, and look for anything obviously wrong with these, such as corrosion. If nothing visible, then it might be something internal to the parts. If there is a particular part that you suspect may be bad, try replacing it with a new one or known good one.
7.)After this, just to make sure that you really have found the problem, look at the multi-meter again. i.e.- you may have more than one bad part. If the meter shows zero, congratulations, you are done!
8.)If the meter still not read zero, after checking all of the fuses, it is something that is not on a fused circuit. Check the shop manual for everything that is not on a fused circuit, and and look for obvious problems or test by replacing with a known good part.
get a multi meter and try to trouble shoot where the drain is coming from.
1.)Pull the positive cable off of the battery, w/ the key off. (Be careful not to ground the wrench!)
2.)Put a multi-meter in-line with the battery cable and the post you just removed it from. Set it to current (Amps).
3.)If it shows any reading, something is draining it (i.e.- the battery is probably good). Make sure all the doors, etc. are closed, so nothing could be causing a drain, such as the dome light.
4.)If the voltage meter does show a drain, then pull the fuses one by one, and see if any one of them makes a difference. If you pull one, and the meter goes to zero, the offending item is on that circuit. Get out the shop manual and look at the wiring diagrams to see what is on that circuit.
5.)If you pull one, and it drops significantly but not all the way to zero, then you may have more than one bad part and will need to repeat the following steps more than once, for multiple circuits.
6.)Check the electrical parts/equipment on the circuit, and look for anything obviously wrong with these, such as corrosion. If nothing visible, then it might be something internal to the parts. If there is a particular part that you suspect may be bad, try replacing it with a new one or known good one.
7.)After this, just to make sure that you really have found the problem, look at the multi-meter again. i.e.- you may have more than one bad part. If the meter shows zero, congratulations, you are done!
8.)If the meter still not read zero, after checking all of the fuses, it is something that is not on a fused circuit. Check the shop manual for everything that is not on a fused circuit, and and look for obvious problems or test by replacing with a known good part.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Socal
[QUOTE=hitman619;4327216]If you tried a new battery and it still drained the new battery
get a multi meter and try to trouble shoot where the drain is coming from.
the battery has not drained where the car dies. But, the Battery light Comes on I step on the gas, it goes off, I let off it comes on, to me it sounds like something in the alternator is bad? and the copper that I can see inside of the alternator looks to be a bit burnt, so I suspect it's something lose in the alternator, bad connection w/ the copper in it?
get a multi meter and try to trouble shoot where the drain is coming from.
the battery has not drained where the car dies. But, the Battery light Comes on I step on the gas, it goes off, I let off it comes on, to me it sounds like something in the alternator is bad? and the copper that I can see inside of the alternator looks to be a bit burnt, so I suspect it's something lose in the alternator, bad connection w/ the copper in it?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: boston Mass
Did you test the voltage of the battery in two conditions:
1)Car is off, you should read about 12.5V
2)Car is on, you should read about 14.5V
The only generator of electricity is the alternator and it tied directly to RPM IF THE REGULATOR CIRCUIT IS DEAD.
If the regulator circuit is fine you would see very slight voltage changes when RPM is vary and the voltage would be 14.5 ish at idle.
It sounds like your regulator (Rectifies and straightens the DC voltage) is going bad.
Run the tests and let us know.
1)Car is off, you should read about 12.5V
2)Car is on, you should read about 14.5V
The only generator of electricity is the alternator and it tied directly to RPM IF THE REGULATOR CIRCUIT IS DEAD.
If the regulator circuit is fine you would see very slight voltage changes when RPM is vary and the voltage would be 14.5 ish at idle.
It sounds like your regulator (Rectifies and straightens the DC voltage) is going bad.
Run the tests and let us know.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Socal
well, i have not ran the tests, but I was going to buy the voltage regulator, and put that on, Until They told me it would be $110 for the Regulator and $130 for the whole alternator.. cost me about $20 for a regulator on a 72 chevy. I believe