I do all my own repairs... the money I save is ridiculous!! Why pay Honda $500 to change one CV shaft, when I can buy the shaft for $75 and put it in myself... yeah, its kinda a *****, but ive done so many its very easy now, kinda learn all the tricks to getting it done easily.

It helps a million being able to do it yourself... and I learned all I know from my dad, or trying things myself...

 

I am about to get my timing belt change along with major stuff. i am at 63K I don't know of any new sites but if you email them, they might know. There very helpful.

 

well....i would love to know how to do that. When i think of doin somethin i havent done before i get kinda freaked because my honda is my only car right now and if i screw it up, i'll have no ride, so i gotta be VERY cautious when doing repair work. Is it simple to do a cv shaft change? Do you need special tools to do so? I am very very uninformed when it comes to drive train repair. I need more practice with it.

Dave

 

What a fukcing biitch. The muthafukcing inner CV joint will not release itself from the transmission for shiit. Sumnabiitch is up on jack stands right now in my buddy's garage. I know his wife gets pissed at me.

Getting the CV shafts pulled from the wheel/rotor is tedious, but easy. The Haynes manual sends you to like 8 different sections because the parts involved ar mixed among "Driveaxle" section and "Steering and Suspension" section. So sorting through all of that was tough at first, but doing the second side was easy after doing the first.

So getting the shafts separated is no problem. But I guess after 163K miles, the shafts get welded to the transmission or something. Advance has a $16 tool that we couldn't get our hands on yesterday that could help. Word is NAPA has something too. So I gotta try to find that tool today so I can finish the job.

sumnabiitch

 

Well, hopefully this tool will get the trick done.



It's $15.99 from Advance AutoParts. I just went and paid for it so it should be in this afternoon when we get off work.

Of course, when I went and asked for it, the dude said "just use a prybar". I'm like, "mufukca, we tried a prybar for damn 4 hours yesterday. the mufukca ain't coming off!"

The tool says you should use a slidehammer with it. Well, if AutoZone doesn't have a slidehammer available for "Rent A Tool", then imma just have at that mufukca with a mini sledge-hammer!

 

Just did a clutch job this weekend on a 94 Accord...CV joints are a biatch, and im sure youve tried after four hours, but get a friend to hold the prybar against the tranny/cv joint and then kick it like its your job....dont just push on it, you need to go off on it and really kick the prybar a few times...you'll get it......and then be ready for some tranny fluid to come out so you dont get your shoes all messed up.......

 

yea when i did my axle we tried for like 2 hours to get it out. then we started kickin it and finnally came out. just make sure u dont nick the axle seal or u will need a new one.

 

thanks for the motivation, fellas. but the thing that's actually fukced up is the connection of the driver side inner CV joint housing to the intermediate drive shaft. The intermediate drive shaft is in the middle of the car bolted onto the back of the engine near the oil pan. It is basically an extension of the driver's side drive shaft to connect it to the transmission which is on the passenger side.

I put the passenger side CV joint in successfully and it connects directly into the transmission (without the need of an intermediate drive shaft).

So that connection at the intermediate drive shaft is what's causing the problem. In hindsight, it probably would've have been more cost effective and convenient to just rebuild the new CV joint into the existing inner CV joint housing instead of actually trying to beat it to all hell trying to get that housing out. All whe had to do was take the inner boot off the new CV shaft, add more grease to the tri-knuckle thing, and then attach the new boot to the existing (stuck) inner CV joint housing and apply a new boot clamp.

But that's about 36 hours too late.